Ingredient Profiles
Skincare science, made simple.
Certifications are referenced for transparency. Ingredient qualification is governed by the Hierarchy of Purity™ framework.
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Bisabolol — Skin-calming botanical active Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Ectoin— Cellular stress protection active Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Lupine Peptide— Supports firmness & elasticity
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedNiacinamide — Refines texture & strengthens barrier
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally Derived CompatibleOat Beta Glucan — Soothes + reinforces the moisture barrier
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedOat Protein — Barrier-supportive scaffold protein Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Rice Protein — Amino acid scaffold complement Certification: COSMOS-compliant
DL-Panthenol (Vitamin B5)— Moisture retention + repair
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally Derived CompatibleAllantoin — Calms irritation + supports skin repair
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally Derived CompatibleBakuchiol — Retinol-like renewal without irritation
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedBearberry Extract — Natural brightening and tone-evening active Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Sea Buckthorn Extract— Vitamin-rich antioxidant resilience
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally Derived
(CO₂ versions also allowed under COSMOS)Gotu Kola Extract— Collagen-supporting botanical active
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedWillow Bark Extract — Natural BHA-like clarity
Certification: COSMOS-approved • Naturally DerivedGreen Tea Extract — Antioxidant defense + calming support
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedLicorice Root Extract — Brightening + tone-calming support
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedChamomile Extract — Soothing comfort for sensitive skin
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedCucumber Extract — Cooling hydration + skin comfort
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedTremella Mushroom Extract — Sustained moisture reservoir and active delivery support Certification: COSMOS-compliant
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Arrowroot Powder — Natural texture and oil-absorption agent Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Hydrolyzed Oats — Softening, conditioning humectant
Certification: COSMOS-compliantGlycerin — Foundational moisture retention
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedPropanediol 1,3 — Lightweight hydration + delivery support
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedSodium PCA — Strong moisture magnet
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedUrea — Deep hydration + texture softening
Certification: COSMOS-approved • Naturally Derived CompatibleSodium Gluconate — Hydration support + formula stability
Certification: COSMOS-approved • Naturally DerivedHyaluronic Acid Systems (HA 4D, Oleo-HA) — Multi-level hydration
Certification: COSMOS-compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards) -
Murumuru Butter— Cushiony barrier repair
Certification: COSMOS-compliantCupuaçu Butter — Deep hydration with elastic comfort
Certification: COSMOS-compliantKokum Butter — Dry-finish structure for anhydrous formulas Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Shea Butter — Nutrient-rich barrier nourishment
Certification: COSMOS-compliantCocoa Butter — Protective richness + lasting softness
Certification: COSMOS-compliantMango Butter — Lightweight nourishment + smooth barrier support
Certification: COSMOS-compliantAvocado Butter — Nutrient-dense barrier replenishment
Certification: COSMOS-compliantHemisqualane (Neossance)— Weightless slip + dry-touch feel
Certification: COSMOS-compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards)Squalane — Non-greasy replenishment
Certification: COSMOS-compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards)Rosehip Oil— Brightening fatty acids + renewal
Certification: COSMOS-compliantJojoba Oil— Balancing, skin-mimicking moisture
Certification: COSMOS-compliantMeadowfoam Seed Oil— Ultra stable lightweight emollient Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Moringa Oil— Antioxidant-rich nourishment
Certification: COSMOS-compliantSweet Almond Oil— Softening, barrier-supporting fatty acids
Certification: COSMOS-compliantCamellia Seed Oil — Silky barrier-softening lipid
Certification: COSMOS-compliantCastor Oil — Barrier-sealing comfort + resilience
Certification: COSMOS-compliantCaprylic/Capric Triglycerides (CCT / MCT)— Lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedCeramide NP/AP/EOP Complex — Multi-ceramide barrier reconstruction system Certification: COSMOS-compliant
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Cera Bellina — Crystallization control and dry-cushion film in anhydrous formulas Certification: Naturally Derived — Not COSMOS Approved
Jasmine Sambac Wax — Floral wax for structure and sensory refinement Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Rose Floral Wax — Floral wax for structure and natural scent identity Certification: COSMOS-compliant
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Coco-Caprylate/Caprate — Silicone-like glide without residue
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedBehenyl Alcohol — Structure and cushion without waxiness
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedOlivem® 1000 MB — Skin-identical emulsion architecture + long-term stability
Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Naturally derived emulsifying system produced under COSMOS processing standardsSilica Microspheres— Velvet-soft blur + luxurious glide
Certification: COSMOS-compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards)Ester AB — Lightweight slip + refined spreadability
Certification: COSMOS Compliant • Naturally DerivedHydrolyzed Oats— Silky, conditioned feel
Certification: COSMOS-compliant • Naturally DerivedBoron Nitride — Silky mineral for optical blurring and slip Certification: COSMOS-compliant
Fine Mica — Light-reflective mineral for subtle luminosity Certification: COSMOS-compliant
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Geogard 221 — Eco-approved broad-spectrum
Certification: ECOCERT-approved • COSMOS-approvedGeogard ETC — Eco-approved broad-spectrum
Certification: ECOCERT-approved • COSMOS-approvedTRIstat ECO — Mild, modern preservation
Certification: ECOCERT-approved • COSMOS-approvedVitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols) — Antioxidant oil protector
Certification: COSMOS-approved • ECOCERT-acceptedRosemary Extract— Natural antioxidant booster
Certification: COSMOS-approved • ECOCERT-accepted
THE HIERARCHY OF PURITY™ (Quick Guide)
How Gladiateur Beauty™ evaluates every ingredient
Organic
Highest purity tier for agricultural ingredients, including botanicals, oils, and butters—when applicable and functional.
COSMOS Compliant
Ingredients allowed under the COSMOS standard, including actives, extracts, peptides, and humectants.
Note: ECOCERT is a certifying body operating under the COSMOS standard. ECOCERT-approved ingredients are treated as COSMOS Compliant within the Hierarchy of Purity™.
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Renewable or eco-engineered ingredients designed to be skin-compatible and performance-driven (e.g., hyaluronic acid systems, peptides, squalane, hemisqualane).
Naturally Derived
Plant-origin ingredients refined as needed for cosmetic safety, stability, and performance under recognized clean formulation standards.
Natural Antioxidant Systems
Antioxidants used to support formula stability, such as vitamin E and rosemary extract.
Eco-Approved Preservation
Preservation systems allowed under recognized clean frameworks, used only when required for safety (e.g., Geogard 221, TRIstat ECO).
If an ingredient doesn’t meet these standards, it isn’t used in Gladiateur Beauty™ formulas.
High-Performance Actives
Bisabolol (alpha-Bisabolol)
What it is: A naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in chamomile and other botanicals — one of the most well-documented skin-calming actives in cosmetic science.
Hierarchy of Purity™: Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant (Bio-Identical when synthesized to match the natural compound)
What it does:
Calms visible redness and irritation
Enhances skin comfort and tolerance
Supports barrier repair and recovery
Improves penetration of surrounding actives
Adds a subtle skin-softening effect
Why we chose it: Bisabolol has been used in dermatology and cosmetic formulation for decades — which means its safety record is essentially bulletproof and its mechanism is well understood. It's anti-inflammatory, it's gentle, and it has the rare quality of actually improving the delivery of other ingredients around it. Think of it as the diplomat of the formula — smoothing things over, keeping everything calm, and making sure everyone else looks good. We use it across multiple formulas precisely because compromised and reactive skin needs calming support built into the base, not just added as an afterthought.
Ectoin
What it is
A naturally derived extremophile compound — originally isolated from bacteria that survive in salt lakes and desert environments. One of the most effective stress-protection actives in modern cosmetic science.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Protects skin cells from environmental and UV stress
• Supports the skin's natural moisture retention system
• Calms visible redness and irritation
• Strengthens skin resilience under chronic stress conditions
• Helps stabilize cellular membranes against damage
Why we chose it
Ectoin's mechanism is genuinely interesting — it forms a structured water shell around cells and proteins, stabilizing them under conditions of heat, UV exposure, and osmotic stress. Think of it as the skin's emergency force field: invisible until things get difficult, then suddenly the most important thing in the room. It's produced through fermentation, COSMOS compliant, and has a strong clinical record for sensitive and reactive skin. We chose it because skin that's been through medical stress isn't dealing with normal environmental exposure — it needs protection that's documented for exactly that kind of load.
Lupine Peptide
What it is
A plant-derived peptide from Lupinus albus — a naturally resilient botanical.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports firmness and elasticity
• Strengthens the moisture barrier
• Boosts hydration retention
• Helps skin recover from stress
Why we chose it
Lupine isn't just a pretty plant — its protein is structurally sophisticated enough to be hydrolyzed into peptides that communicate directly with skin's firmness pathways. Think of it as a very persuasive text message to your collagen. We chose it because it performs like a high-end synthetic active without requiring one. It's gentle enough for compromised skin, effective enough to earn its place in a performance formula, and sits cleanly in the Bio-Based / Bio-Identical tier. That's not a common combination.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
What it is
A bioactive, bio-identical form of Vitamin B3 — one of skincare's most reliable overachievers.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Refines skin texture and the appearance of pores
• Strengthens the skin barrier
• Helps balance oil and improve clarity
• Calms visible redness and irritation
Why we chose it
Niacinamide is the rare active that does multiple jobs without throwing a tantrum on sensitive skin. It mirrors a vitamin the skin already uses in cellular repair and barrier maintenance — which means it's not fighting biology, it's supporting it. Stable, versatile, broadly tolerated, and COSMOS compliant. It earned its place by being genuinely hard to argue with.
Oat Beta-Glucan
What it is
A polysaccharide pulled from oats that's been quietly outperforming fancier ingredients for decades.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Soothes stressed and reactive skin
• Strengthens the moisture barrier
• Enhances hydration retention
• Supports the skin's natural repair processes
Why we chose it
Beta-glucan is what you get when you take oats seriously. It's extracted and refined for cosmetic use, but its biological activity stays intact — meaning it genuinely calms, cushions, and supports barrier repair rather than just sitting in the formula looking wholesome. The oat aisle at the grocery store wishes it worked this hard. Gentle enough for compromised skin, effective enough to carry its weight in a performance formula.
Oat Protein (Avena sativa)
What it is
A hydrolyzed protein fraction from oats — broken down into fragments small enough to interact meaningfully with the skin barrier rather than just sit on top of it.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports barrier integrity and resilience
• Calms and soothes stressed or reactive skin
• Improves moisture retention
• Provides amino acid support for skin structure
Why we chose it
Oat protein is one of the scaffold components in the Gladiateur Peptide Complex™ (Continuum™). Its hydrolyzed form delivers a distinct amino acid profile — rich in proline, glycine, and glutamic acid — that supports barrier comfort and provides a different structural contribution than lupine or rice protein alone. It's the ingredient equivalent of a reliable second opinion: it may not be the loudest voice in the formula, but the formula is measurably weaker without it.
Rice Protein (Oryza sativa)
What it is
A hydrolyzed protein from rice that contributes a specific amino acid profile distinct from oat and lupine — completing the scaffold system with its own structural and conditioning contribution.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports skin texture and smoothness
• Contributes amino acids that support barrier repair
• Improves overall formula conditioning
• Works alongside oat and lupine proteins in the scaffold system
Why we chose it
Rice protein rounds out the three-protein scaffold in Continuum™ by filling amino acid gaps that oat and lupine don't fully address on their own. It has a notably high content of glutamine and alanine, which support cellular hydration and skin texture. Using three distinct protein sources rather than one at a higher concentration produces a more complete amino acid profile — the same logic behind a varied diet versus a single supplement. It's precise formulation thinking applied to protein science.
DL-Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
What it is
A bio-identical pro-vitamin that converts to pantothenic acid the moment it hits your skin — which is exactly what the skin wants.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Improves moisture retention
• Softens and smooths the skin
• Supports barrier repair
• Helps calm visible irritation
Why we chose it
Panthenol is one of those ingredients that does its best work without announcing itself. It converts to pantothenic acid in skin — a compound naturally involved in barrier maintenance and hydration — which means it's not a foreign agent, it's a returning resident. Think of it as the reliable understudy who actually knows all the lines. Deeply compatible, broadly tolerated, and quietly essential.
Allantoin
What it is
A bio-identical compound originally found in comfrey — now synthesized to match the skin's own language of comfort and recovery.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Calms visible irritation
• Supports skin comfort and recovery
• Softens rough or stressed skin
• Improves overall tolerance of active formulas
Why we chose it
Allantoin is the ingredient equivalent of a very competent, very calm colleague who never escalates anything. It's nature-identical — meaning it's built to match the compound found in plants while offering greater purity and consistency. We use it to smooth the edges in high-performance formulas — where actives are doing heavy lifting, allantoin makes sure the skin doesn't stage a protest. Gentle, effective, and easy to trust.
Bakuchiol (Psoralea corylifolia)
What it is
A plant-derived active that delivers retinol-like results without the skin meltdown that usually comes with them.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports skin renewal and smoothness
• Helps improve the appearance of fine lines
• Promotes more even tone and texture
• Enhances overall skin clarity
Why we chose it
Bakuchiol doesn't pretend to be retinol — it just happens to activate some of the same pathways without the irritation, photosensitivity, or barrier disruption. Extracted from Psoralea corylifolia and refined for cosmetic stability, it's the rare botanical that earns its comparison to a synthetic without needing to borrow its name. For sensitive skin, retinoid-intolerant users, or anyone who's been burned before — this is the play.
Bearberry Extract (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
What it is
A glycerin-based botanical extract from bearberry leaves — one of the most clinically studied natural brightening actives available, standardized for arbutin content.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Helps fade the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone
• Inhibits the enzyme responsible for excess melanin production
• Provides antioxidant support
• Soothes and calms skin alongside its brightening activity
Why we chose it
Bearberry extract's active compound is arbutin — a naturally occurring glycoside that inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin overproduction. It's the same mechanism as kojic acid and certain synthetic brighteners, but delivered from a botanical source in a glycerin base that makes it gentle enough for sensitive skin. The FSS supplier specification confirms aqueous phase compatibility and usage rate. We chose it for First Light because it addresses tone unevenness through a well-documented, non-irritating pathway — exactly what skin recovering from medication side effects or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation needs.
Sea Buckthorn Extract (Hippophae rhamnoides)
What it is
A nutrient-dense berry extract that's been doing serious skincare work long before anyone put it in a serum.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports skin resilience and recovery
• Helps brighten and even the appearance of tone
• Provides antioxidant support against environmental stress
• Nourishes and softens the skin
Why we chose it
Sea buckthorn is genuinely one of the most complex botanicals in skincare — packed with fatty acids, carotenoids, and antioxidants that survive refinement and stay active in formulation. It's not just a trendy orange oil. CO2-extracted versions retain the most integrity, and COSMOS allows it. We chose it for its antioxidant density and skin-recovery support — not for the color or the story, though both are good.
Gotu Kola Extract (Centella asiatica)
What it is
A collagen-supporting botanical with centuries of traditional use and a growing body of clinical data to back it up.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports firmness and elasticity
• Helps improve the appearance of fine lines
• Calms and strengthens the skin
• Provides antioxidant support
Why we chose it
Gotu kola has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for skin healing long before the beauty industry discovered it — which means its track record isn't marketing, it's history. Its active compounds, triterpenoids, support collagen synthesis and skin resilience in ways that have held up under modern clinical scrutiny. We chose it because it earns the claims, and because plants that have genuinely worked for centuries don't need much convincing.
Willow Bark Extract (Salix alba)
What it is
A botanical extract that naturally contains salicylates — nature's original approach to skin clarity before synthetic BHAs existed.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Helps clarify and refine skin texture
• Supports clearer-looking pores
• Provides gentle surface-level exfoliation
• Balances and soothes while refining
Why we chose it
Willow bark is where salicylic acid comes from — or at least, where the inspiration did. The extract retains naturally occurring salicylates in their plant-bound form, which means gentler activity, not zero activity. It won't replace a clinical BHA treatment, and we're not claiming it will. What it does is refine, clarify, and balance without the edge — which is exactly what it's here for.
Green Tea Extract (Camellia sinensis)
What it is
A polyphenol-rich botanical extract that's been protecting skin from oxidative stress longer than the supplement aisle has known about it.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides antioxidant support against environmental stress
• Helps calm visible redness and reactivity
• Supports overall skin resilience
• Enhances balance and comfort in daily-use formulas
Why we chose it
Green tea's EGCG content makes it one of the most studied antioxidants in skincare — and unlike a lot of botanical actives, the research actually holds up. It scavenges free radicals, calms inflammation pathways, and supports skin resilience without irritation. It's not a trend ingredient. It's been in serious formulas for decades because it works quietly and consistently. That's all we ask.
Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra)
What it is
A botanical brightener derived from licorice root — the original tone-evening ingredient before niacinamide got all the credit.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Helps brighten and even the appearance of skin tone
• Calms visible redness and reactivity
• Supports skin clarity and balance
• Enhances overall radiance
Why we chose it
Glabridin — the active compound in licorice root — inhibits the enzyme responsible for pigment overproduction without bleaching or stripping. It's a subtler mechanism than hydroquinone, and a safer one. Combined with its anti-inflammatory properties, it's genuinely useful for redness-prone and uneven skin. We use it because it addresses tone and inflammation simultaneously, which is a combination worth having.
Chamomile Extract (Chamomilla recutita)
What it is
A calming botanical extract that's been soothing irritated skin since long before the wellness industry made it a brand aesthetic.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Soothes visible irritation and redness
• Supports overall skin comfort
• Helps reduce signs of sensitivity
• Reinforces gentle skin balance
Why we chose it
Chamomile's active compounds — bisabolol and chamazulene — are documented anti-inflammatories with genuine calming activity. This isn't aromatherapy. It's a botanical with measurable skin-calming function that has earned its place in sensitive-skin formulation. We use it because it reduces irritation without adding any, and because formulas with a lot going on need something that just settles everything down.
Cucumber Extract (Cucumis sativus)
What it is
A hydrating botanical extract that does exactly what it sounds like — and actually has the science to justify the reputation.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides lightweight hydration
• Helps cool and refresh the skin
• Supports comfort and softness
• Enhances overall skin feel
Why we chose it
Cucumber extract contains flavonoids and tannins that genuinely contribute to its calming, hydrating properties — it's not just spa mythology. Its silica content supports skin elasticity, and its high water content makes it naturally lightweight and non-occlusive. It's the ingredient equivalent of a glass of cold water on a hot day: uncomplicated, effective, and exactly what stressed or overworked skin needs.
Tremella Mushroom Extract (Tremella fuciformis)
What it is
A polysaccharide-rich botanical extract from the snow mushroom — forms a moisture reservoir that keeps actives bio-available and in sustained contact with the skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Creates a sustained moisture reservoir within the formula
• Keeps actives in contact with skin over extended periods
• Supports long-term hydration without occlusion
• Provides antioxidant support
• Improves overall skin plumpness and suppleness
Why we chose it
Tremella is frequently described as a natural alternative to hyaluronic acid — which undersells it significantly. It doesn't replace HA; it works through a different mechanism. Where HA binds water directly, Tremella's polysaccharides form a film-like network that traps moisture and keeps the formula's actives in bio-available contact with skin over time. Think of it less like a hydrator and more like a delivery sustainer — it's the reason the actives keep working after initial absorption. In Continuum™, it's part of the remodel axis, supporting the sustained activity of the botanical active alongside it.
Hydrators (Humectants)
Arrowroot Powder (Maranta arundinacea)
What it is
A fine starch powder derived from the arrowroot plant — used in cosmetics for its silky texture, oil absorption, and ability to improve formula elegance without synthetic ingredients.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Absorbs excess moisture and surface oil
• Improves slip and skin feel
• Contributes to a smooth, powdery-soft finish
• Helps stabilize formula texture
Why we chose it
Arrowroot powder is doing what talc used to do — absorbing oil, improving slip, and softening the overall skin feel — without the contamination concerns associated with talc. It's a simple, elegant, plant-derived solution to a formulation challenge that used to require synthetic alternatives. In Nightwatch™ it helps balance the richer emollient phase without compromising the plush-satin finish. Nature solving a texture problem it didn't need to be taught.
Hydrolyzed Oats
What it is
A water-soluble oat derivative rich in amino acids — the part of oats that actually talks to your skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Improves moisture retention
• Softens and conditions the skin
• Provides lightweight hydration
• Helps reduce the feeling of irritation and tightness
Why we chose it
Hydrolyzed oats are what you get when you break oat protein down into fragments small enough for the skin to actually use. The resulting amino acids and peptides condition, soothe, and support the moisture barrier — without the grainy texture that makes whole oats impractical in a formula. It's oat functionality without the oatmeal aesthetic. Which, for skincare, is the right call.
Glycerin
What it is
A bio-identical humectant naturally present in the skin — the most reliable moisture-binding ingredient in existence.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Draws moisture into the skin
• Supports long-term hydration
• Helps maintain barrier function
• Improves overall skin comfort and resilience
Why we chose it
Glycerin is so effective at moisture retention that it's used as the benchmark against which other humectants are measured. Its molecular structure is bio-identical to the glycerol naturally present in skin, which means it integrates seamlessly without disrupting biology. It's been in skincare for over a century and hasn't been replaced — not because the industry is lazy, but because nothing has managed to do the job better. We're not going to argue with that track record.
Propanediol 1,3
What it is
A bio-based humectant produced through fermentation of plant sugars — cleaner than its petrochemical predecessor, and better performing.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Attracts and retains moisture
• Enhances solubility of active ingredients
• Improves formula texture and sensorial feel
• Supports preservation efficacy
Why we chose it
Propanediol 1,3 replaced propylene glycol for a reason. Fermented from corn sugar via green chemistry, it delivers the same humectant and solvent functionality without the petrochemical origin or the skin-sensitization concerns. It also improves the delivery of actives and enhances formula feel — which makes it a multi-tasker worth having. COSMOS compliant, bio-derived, and genuinely useful. Easy decision.
Sodium PCA
What it is
A bio-identical humectant that's already living in your skin — we're just replenishing what time and environment take away.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports deep, long-lasting hydration
• Helps reduce transepidermal moisture loss
• Improves skin softness and flexibility
• Strengthens the skin's natural moisture balance
Why we chose it
Sodium PCA is a core component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor — the system the skin uses to keep itself hydrated. That makes it one of the most skin-compatible humectants in existence, because it's not a guest in the formula, it's a native resident. Its ability to bind water is exceptional, and its tolerability is near-universal. We use it because working with skin's own moisture system is always more effective than working around it.
Urea (Cosmetic Grade)
What it is
A bio-identical skin component that at low concentrations is one of the most effective hydrators in formulation — at higher concentrations, it's a clinical exfoliant. We stay in the hydration lane.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Enhances moisture retention
• Softens rough or textured skin
• Supports gentle surface renewal at low levels
• Improves barrier flexibility and comfort
Why we chose it
Urea is naturally present in the skin's NMF — which means the skin knows exactly what to do with it. At cosmetic concentrations, it hydrates, softens, and improves barrier flexibility without any of the intensity associated with higher clinical doses. It's one of the most effective humectants for dry and rough skin, and one of the most under-appreciated in clean beauty because its name sounds clinical. That's our problem to correct, not a reason to avoid it.
Sodium Gluconate
What it is
A fermentation-derived chelator that works quietly behind the scenes — keeping the formula stable so every other ingredient can do its job.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports hydration by improving water-phase performance
• Chelates metal ions to help stabilize formulations
• Improves overall skin feel
• Enhances formula longevity and consistency
Why we chose it
Sodium gluconate doesn't have a glamorous job. It binds metal ions in the formula — ions that would otherwise interfere with preservation, destabilize emulsions, and degrade actives over time. It's the ingredient equivalent of the person who quietly fixes everything before anyone notices it's broken. Produced via fermentation of glucose, COSMOS compliant, and doing essential work in every formula it touches.
Hyaluronic Acid Systems (HA 4D, Oleo-HA, Sodium Hyaluronate)
What it is
A multi-molecular system of bio-identical humectants designed to hydrate at every level of the skin — not just the surface.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides immediate and sustained hydration
• Helps plump the appearance of skin
• Supports barrier comfort and flexibility
• Improves overall smoothness and skin feel
Why we chose it
Not all hyaluronic acid is created equal. Molecular weight determines where it acts — high-molecular-weight HA sits at the surface and plumps; low-molecular-weight HA penetrates deeper and hydrates at the structural level; Oleo-HA bridges oil and water phases for balanced delivery. Using a system instead of a single form means hydration isn't just a surface event. It's a strategy. Produced via biotech fermentation, COSMOS approved, and exactly as sophisticated as it sounds.
Emollients & Barrier Oils
Where agricultural sourcing applies, Gladiateur prioritizes organically sourced ingredients for improved traceability and reduced contaminant risk.
This category includes oils and butters derived directly from plants — where farming practices meaningfully impact purity.
Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum murumuru)
What it is
A rich, cushiony palm butter sourced from the Amazon — high in lauric and oleic acids, with a skin feel that earns its place in any barrier formula.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Deeply moisturizes and softens the skin
• Strengthens and supports the moisture barrier
• Helps reduce transepidermal moisture loss
• Enhances elasticity and overall comfort
Why we chose it
Murumuru butter has a fatty acid profile that lends itself naturally to barrier reinforcement — high lauric acid for antimicrobial support, oleic acid for deep penetration and softness. It melts at skin temperature, which means application is intuitive and absorption is efficient. We chose it because it delivers serious moisture without the heaviness of some tropical butters, and because its sourcing story — Amazonian origin, traceable supply — aligns with how we think about ingredient integrity.
Cupuaçu Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum)
What it is
A moisture-binding botanical butter from the Amazon rainforest that absorbs water at a rate most lipids can't touch.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides long-lasting hydration
• Improves skin elasticity and suppleness
• Supports the lipid barrier
• Softens and conditions dry skin
Why we chose it
Cupuaçu butter is unusual in that it can absorb up to 440% of its weight in water — which makes it genuinely one of the most effective moisture-binding lipids in formulation. Its phytosterol content supports barrier function, and its texture is smooth and plush without the waxiness of heavier butters. It's a workhorse disguised as a luxury ingredient. We use it because the numbers back up the feel.
Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)
What it is
The gold standard of botanical barrier butters — and one of the few ingredients whose reputation is actually earned.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Deeply nourishes and softens the skin
• Supports barrier repair and resilience
• Helps calm dryness and visible irritation
• Improves overall skin comfort and flexibility
Why we chose it
Shea butter's unsaponifiable fraction — the part that doesn't convert to soap — is what makes it exceptional. It's rich in triterpenes, tocopherols, and phytosterols that actively support barrier repair rather than just sitting on top of it. The rest of the fatty acid profile delivers long-lasting softness and protection. It's been a cornerstone of skincare formulation for decades because it genuinely works under pressure. Not much more to say.
Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao)
What it is
A dense, protective botanical butter with one of the most stable fatty acid profiles in natural cosmetics.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Softens and smooths the skin
• Forms a protective barrier to reduce moisture loss
• Improves elasticity and comfort
• Supports long-lasting nourishment
Why we chose it
Cocoa butter is mostly stearic and palmitic acid — a combination that creates an exceptionally stable, long-lasting occlusive layer. It melts at body temperature, which means it applies smoothly and integrates well into formulas without requiring a lot of heat processing. Its oxidative stability also means it extends the life of surrounding lipids. We use it for barrier formulas that need to stay put — and stay effective.
Kokum Butter (Garcinia indica)
What it is
A hard, dry-finish botanical butter from the seeds of the Garcinia indica tree — one of the most structurally unique butters in clean formulation.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant (Organic when certified)
What it does
Provides firm structure in anhydrous formulas without a waxy or heavy feel
Absorbs quickly with a characteristically dry, non-greasy finish
Supports barrier function and skin softness
Improves the stability and texture of stick and balm formulas
Why we chose it
Kokum butter has one of the highest stearic acid concentrations of any plant butter — which gives it an unusually hard, dry-touch character that most butters can't replicate. It melts cleanly at skin temperature, leaves almost no residue, and contributes real structural integrity to anhydrous stick formulas without the greasiness of softer butters. Think of it as the quiet overachiever of the butter world — nobody's talking about it at the party, but it's the reason the formula holds together beautifully. We use it in anhydrous formulas specifically for that dry-finish structure it brings that nothing else quite matches.
Mango Butter (Mangifera indica)
What it is
A balanced botanical butter with a lighter skin feel than most — the butter you reach for when you need nourishment without weight.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Softens and conditions the skin
• Supports the moisture barrier
• Helps reduce dryness without heaviness
• Improves overall skin smoothness and comfort
Why we chose it
Mango butter sits between shea and cocoa in terms of richness — less dense than cocoa, more structured than mango oil. Its stearic and oleic acid content provides good barrier support without the thick, slow-melting texture of heavier butters. It spreads easily, absorbs without residue, and plays well with other lipids in complex formulas. We chose it for formulas that need nourishment with a lighter hand.
Avocado Butter (Persea gratissima)
What it is
A nutrient-dense botanical butter built from avocado oil — with the fatty acid profile to match its reputation for deep skin nourishment.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Deeply nourishes and softens the skin
• Supports barrier repair and resilience
• Helps relieve dryness and rough texture
• Improves overall skin comfort
Why we chose it
Avocado butter is essentially avocado oil processed to a semi-solid form — which means it brings everything avocado oil is known for (oleic acid richness, vitamin E, phytosterols) in a more structured, formula-friendly format. It's particularly effective for very dry or barrier-compromised skin because its penetration is good and its nutrient load is high. We use it in restorative formulas where the skin needs more than surface-level nourishment.
Hemisqualane (Neossance)
What it is
A lightweight bio-based emollient derived from sugarcane — engineered to behave like skin's natural lipids, but lighter than anything nature produces on its own.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Improves slip and spreadability
• Absorbs quickly without residue
• Softens and conditions the skin
• Enhances lightweight moisture and comfort
Why we chose it
Hemisqualane is half the molecular size of squalane, which makes it faster-absorbing and even lighter on the skin. Produced by Neossance via sugarcane fermentation, it's an elegant bio-based alternative to silicone fluids — without the environmental persistence or the pore-coating behavior. It gives formulas that dry-touch, featherweight finish that used to require cyclopentasiloxane. We chose it because clean formulation shouldn't mean compromising on how a product actually feels.
Squalane
What it is
A skin-identical lipid that mirrors the squalene naturally produced by skin's own sebaceous glands — before age quietly turns the dial down.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Replenishes essential skin lipids
• Strengthens and cushions the moisture barrier
• Balances hydration without heaviness
• Enhances softness and elasticity
Why we chose it
Squalane is the stabilized form of squalene — the lipid the skin produces naturally but produces less of with age, stress, and environmental exposure. Its molecular structure is so compatible with skin that it absorbs without occlusion and reinforces the barrier from within rather than sitting on top of it. Biotech-derived squalane is now the standard — no shark liver, no olive depletion — and COSMOS compliant. We use it because replenishing what the skin has lost is always a better strategy than trying to replace it.
Rosehip Oil (Rosa canina)
What it is
A cold-pressed botanical oil rich in essential fatty acids and natural vitamin A precursors — one of the few plant oils with a legitimate claim to renewal.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports skin repair and visible renewal
• Helps even tone and improve the appearance of marks
• Strengthens the moisture barrier
• Softens texture and improves suppleness
Why we chose it
Rosehip oil's high linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid content makes it genuinely effective for skin renewal — these essential fatty acids are involved in barrier repair and cell signaling in ways that most oils aren't. It also naturally contains trans-retinoic acid precursors, which contribute to its well-documented skin-brightening and renewal activity. Cold-pressed and traceable, it's one of the most substantiated botanical oils in formulation. We chose it because the results aren't anecdotal.
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)
What it is
Technically a liquid wax, not an oil — which is exactly why it behaves so well on skin that produces sebum.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Helps balance and regulate moisture
• Strengthens and supports the skin barrier
• Softens and conditions without clogging
• Supports long-term skin comfort and resilience
Why we chose it
Jojoba is structurally unique because its wax ester composition closely resembles human sebum — which means the skin recognizes it and integrates it naturally into the barrier. It doesn't oxidize, it doesn't go rancid easily, and it works for every skin type because it regulates rather than just adding. Oily skin, dry skin, combination skin — jojoba adapts. We chose it because versatility at this level of quality is rare.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes alba)
What it is
A cold-pressed botanical oil from the meadowfoam plant with one of the most unusual and stable fatty acid profiles in natural cosmetics.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant (Organic when certified)
What it does:
Provides lightweight, long-lasting moisture
Enhances the oxidative stability of surrounding oils in a formula
Improves skin softness and suppleness
Supports barrier function without heaviness
Extends the shelf life of lipid-rich formulas
Why we chose it
Meadowfoam seed oil is almost entirely composed of very long chain fatty acids — over 98% — which is virtually unique in the botanical oil world. That unusual composition gives it exceptional oxidative stability, meaning it resists going rancid far longer than most plant oils and actually helps protect the other oils around it from degrading. It's the formula's insurance policy disguised as an emollient. Lightweight on skin, stable in the formula, and quietly extending the life of everything it touches. We use it in anhydrous formulas specifically because stability matters enormously when there's no preservative system to fall back on.
Moringa Oil (Moringa oleifera)
What it is
A cold-pressed seed oil with one of the highest oleic acid concentrations in botanical cosmetics and exceptional oxidative stability to match.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Nourishes and softens the skin
• Supports the moisture barrier
• Helps defend against environmental stress
• Improves skin suppleness and comfort
Why we chose it
Moringa oil's naturally high behenic acid content is what gives it its unusual stability — it resists oxidation in ways that most plant oils don't, which makes it excellent for formulas that need to stay fresh. Its oleic acid richness means deep penetration and lasting nourishment. We chose it because it performs reliably in complex formulas, keeps well, and delivers real barrier and antioxidant support without compromising on feel.
Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis)
What it is
A gentle, broadly tolerated botanical oil that conditions the skin so reliably it's been a cosmetic staple for centuries.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Softens and smooths the skin
• Supports the moisture barrier
• Helps reduce dryness and roughness
• Improves overall skin comfort
Why we chose it
Sweet almond oil isn't flashy. It's about 70% oleic acid and 20% linoleic acid, which gives it a balanced emollient profile that works across skin types without heaviness or reactivity. It absorbs without residue, conditions without clogging, and has a long enough history of safe use that there's essentially nothing left to prove. We use it in sensitive-skin and balanced formulas because it never causes problems and always contributes something.
Camellia Seed Oil (Camellia oleifera)
What it is
A lightweight, high-oleic botanical oil with centuries of use in Japanese skincare — and a skin feel that justifies the devotion.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Softens and conditions the skin
• Supports barrier integrity
• Helps reduce moisture loss
• Improves suppleness and comfort
Why we chose it
Camellia seed oil is predominantly oleic acid — about 80% — which gives it exceptional skin affinity and penetration without heaviness. Its use in geisha skincare isn't a marketing story; it's a documented tradition that reflects how the oil actually performs on skin. Lightweight, silky, and fast-absorbing, it's one of the most elegant botanical oils in formulation. We chose it for the feel and the function in equal measure.
Castor Oil (Ricinus communis)
What it is
A uniquely structured botanical oil almost entirely composed of ricinoleic acid — a fatty acid found essentially nowhere else in nature.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Organic (when certified) or Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Strengthens and seals the moisture barrier
• Softens and conditions dry or stressed skin
• Enhances slip and comfort in formulations
• Helps reduce transepidermal water loss
Why we chose it
Castor oil is chemically unusual — about 90% ricinoleic acid, a hydroxylated fatty acid that behaves differently from every other plant lipid. It's occlusive without being pore-clogging, conditioning without being greasy, and structurally distinctive in ways that make it genuinely useful for barrier-sealing formulas. It also improves texture and slip in anhydrous systems. We use it because nothing else in the clean botanical toolkit does quite what it does.
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (CCT) (Medium-Chain Triglycerides)
What it is
A refined, neutral emollient made from coconut-derived fatty acids and glycerin — clean, stable, and remarkably good at making formulas feel like nothing at all.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Softens and smooths the skin
• Enhances spreadability and glide
• Supports moisture retention without occlusion
• Helps stabilize and balance oil phases in formulations
Why we chose it
CCT is what you get when you take coconut oil, strip it down to its most functional components, and reassemble them for cosmetic use. The result is a lipid that's lighter, more stable, and more skin-compatible than the original. It doesn't have the comedogenic concerns of coconut oil, it doesn't oxidize easily, and it makes formulas feel elegant without leaving a residue. We use it because clean formulation means clean performance — and CCT delivers both.
Ceramide NP/AP/EOP Complex (Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP)
What it is
A multi-ceramide system combining three distinct ceramide types that collectively replicate the natural ceramide composition of the stratum corneum.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Replenishes the skin's natural ceramide levels
• Strengthens and seals the moisture barrier
• Reduces transepidermal water loss
• Supports barrier recovery in compromised or reactive skin
• Improves long-term skin resilience and tolerance
Why we chose it
The skin's barrier isn't made of one type of ceramide — it's a carefully proportioned matrix of multiple ceramide classes, each contributing differently to barrier structure and function. Ceramide NP is the most abundant in human skin. Ceramide AP supports barrier integrity. Ceramide EOP provides the long-chain fatty acids that seal the outermost lipid layers. Using all three at their natural ratio — rather than a single ceramide at a higher concentration — is how you actually rebuild the barrier rather than just adding ceramide to a label. In Truce™, these are combined with HA and beta-glucan as a full barrier reconstruction system. It's infrastructure work, not marketing.
Waxes & Structuring Agents
Cera Bellina (Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax)
What it is
A chemically modified beeswax created by esterifying beeswax with polyglycerol. Nature-derived but not nature-identical — it does not exist as-is in nature.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — Not COSMOS Approved
What it does:
Inhibits crystallization in anhydrous formulas
Gels oils without greasiness
Prevents syneresis (oil separation) in stick formulas
Creates a smooth, cushioned dry-film on application
Provides structural flexibility without brittleness
Why we chose it: Cera Bellina sits in the Naturally Derived tier because that's exactly what it is — a beeswax derivative modified through esterification with polyglycerol. That chemical step is what disqualifies it from COSMOS approval and bio-identical status, and we're not going to pretend otherwise. No COSMOS-approved or bio-identical alternative delivers the same crystallization control, oil gelling, and dry-cushion film in an anhydrous stick format. It solves a formulation problem that nothing cleaner could solve at the same level of performance. So it's in the formula, it's in the Naturally Derived tier, it's not COSMOS approved, and every one of those facts is documented right here. That's the whole point of this page.
Jasmine Sambac Wax (Jasminum sambac)
What it is
A floral wax extracted from jasmine flowers through solvent extraction — contributes structure, a subtle natural scent character, and a luxurious skin feel to anhydrous formulas.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides light structure in anhydrous formulas
• Contributes a subtle, natural floral scent character
• Improves sensory elegance and skin feel
• Works at very low concentrations without affecting melt or performance
Why we chose it
Floral waxes are what remain after the volatile aromatic compounds are separated from flowers during enfleurage or solvent extraction. What's left is a waxy solid that retains some of the flower's natural character without the intensity of an essential oil or the regulatory complexity of a fragrance compound. In Disarm and First Light, jasmine sambac wax is present in small but deliberate amounts — contributing sensory refinement and a trace of natural identity without dominating the formula or triggering sensitivity. It's the kind of ingredient that doesn't announce itself and is immediately missed when removed.
Rose Floral Wax (Rosa damascena)
What it is
A floral wax extracted from rose petals — provides a complementary structural and sensory contribution to jasmine sambac wax in anhydrous and emulsion formulas.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides light structure in anhydrous formulas
• Contributes a subtle rose character distinct from jasmine
• Improves overall sensory profile and skin feel
• Pairs with jasmine wax for a more complex natural scent identity
Why we chose it
Rose floral wax works in concert with jasmine sambac wax to build a more complete natural sensory character than either delivers alone. The two have distinct aromatic profiles and slightly different waxy compositions — together they create something more interesting and more nuanced than a single floral wax at double the concentration. Used at trace levels where they contribute feel and identity without becoming a fragrance ingredient. In First Light, their combined presence is part of what makes the formula feel finished rather than functional.
Texture Enhancers
Behenyl Alcohol
What it is
A long-chain fatty alcohol derived from plants — one of the few thickeners that adds structure without adding stiffness or drag.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides structure and formula stability
• Adds cushion and slip
• Improves creaminess without heaviness
• Supports barrier-friendly textures
Why we chose it
Behenyl alcohol is the longest-chain fatty alcohol commonly used in skincare — which gives it exceptional skin compatibility and a unique ability to build structure while remaining smooth on application. Unlike shorter-chain fatty alcohols that can feel waxy or draggy, behenyl is silky. It's the structural backbone of formulas that need to hold their form without compromising their feel. We use it because stability and elegance are not mutually exclusive.
Boron Nitride
What it is
An inorganic mineral powder with a hexagonal crystal structure that produces exceptional slip and a silky, blurring skin feel — without silicones.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides an exceptionally silky, smooth skin feel
• Blurs the appearance of pores and fine lines optically
• Improves slip and spreadability
• Absorbs surface oil and reduces shine
• Enhances the elegance of lightweight emulsions and skin preparations
Why we chose it
Boron nitride has a layered crystal structure that allows its particles to slide over each other — which is exactly what creates that signature silky, almost frictionless feel on skin. It's the mineral equivalent of what silicone fluids do, without the environmental persistence or the pore-coating behavior. It also scatters light in a way that softens the appearance of texture and pores without a filter or a film. In First Light, it contributes to the non-comedogenic, light-catching finish that the formula is designed around. An ingredient that sounds industrial and behaves like luxury.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
What it is
A bio-based ester derived from coconut fatty acids that delivers silicone-like slip and glide — without being silicone.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Improves slip and spreadability
• Enhances skin feel and glide
• Helps reduce greasy afterfeel
• Supports elegant texture in emulsions and oil systems
Why we chose it
Coco-caprylate/caprate was developed as a functional alternative to cyclopentasiloxane — the silicone fluid that made so many luxury formulas feel weightless. It replicates that sensory profile using plant-derived esters instead of synthetic polymers. No environmental persistence, no COSMOS conflict, no compromise on elegance. We use it in formulas where the feel matters as much as the function. Which is all of them.
Ester AB (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)
What it is
A lightweight synthetic ester that improves spreadability, dries down to nothing, and keeps heavier lipids from feeling like they're still sitting on the skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Enhances spreadability and glide
• Improves dry-touch feel
• Reduces heaviness in oil-rich formulas
• Helps balance richer emollients
Why we chose it
Ester AB is a formulation tool, not a hero ingredient — and we're comfortable with that. It does one thing exceptionally well: it takes formulas that would otherwise feel occlusive and makes them feel refined. In anhydrous and oil-rich systems, it's particularly useful because it controls skin feel without interfering with the performance of surrounding actives. We use it because elegant formulas don't happen by accident.
Fine Mica (Mica)
What it is
A naturally occurring mineral that provides light-reflective luminosity in cosmetic formulas — used at low concentrations for a subtle, skin-enhancing glow rather than obvious shimmer.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Adds subtle luminosity and skin-flattering light reflection
• Improves overall radiance of the formula
• Contributes to a healthy, lit-from-within appearance
• Works at low concentrations without visible shimmer
Why we chose it
Mica is one of the oldest cosmetic pigments in existence — used for skin enhancement across cultures for millennia before anyone called it an ingredient. At low concentrations it contributes a luminosity that reads as healthy skin rather than shimmer — the difference between looking radiant and looking like you applied a highlighter. In First Light, it's present to support the formula's performance-meets-elegance positioning: efficacious actives deserving of a finish that matches their ambition.
Olivem® 1000 MB
What it is
A plant-derived emulsifying system from olive oil fatty acids that forms lamellar structures — the same architecture the skin barrier uses to organize itself.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Brings oil and water together into stable creams
• Forms skin-mimicking lamellar structures
• Improves long-term formula stability
• Enhances skin tolerance and comfort
Why we chose it
Olivem 1000 MB isn't just an emulsifier — it's a formulation choice that reflects how we think about skin compatibility. Its lamellar organization mirrors the lipid architecture of the stratum corneum, which means the emulsion it creates is structurally familiar to the barrier rather than foreign to it. Creams built with Olivem tend to have better skin tolerance and longer-lasting stability. We chose it because we build for skin, not for shelf life optics.
Silica Microspheres
What it is
Spherical mineral particles refined to a cosmetic grade that blurs, smooths, and gives skin a soft-focus finish — without filters.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Naturally Derived — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Softens and blurs the feel of the skin
• Absorbs excess oil and surface shine
• Improves slip and spreadability
• Enhances a smooth, velvety finish
Why we chose it
Silica microspheres work through light-scattering — they diffuse light across the skin surface in a way that minimizes the appearance of texture and pores without any coating, film, or pore-clogging. They're inert, mineral-derived, and COSMOS compliant. We use them in formulas where the finish matters — particularly products that sit under or alongside makeup — because a good skincare product shouldn't fight with what comes after it.
Lecithin
What it is
A bio-identical phospholipid naturally present in cell membranes — both yours and the formula's.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Supports the skin's lipid barrier
• Helps bind oil and water phases
• Enhances ingredient delivery and dispersion
• Improves softness and overall skin feel
Why we chose it
Lecithin is a phospholipid — the same class of molecule that makes up cellular membranes, including the ones in your skin barrier. That structural similarity means it integrates naturally rather than sitting on top of the skin, and it enhances the delivery of surrounding ingredients by improving their absorption pathway. It also functions as a secondary emulsifier and texture softener. We chose it because multi-function ingredients that are also skin-compatible are exactly what good formulation looks like.
Preservation System
Geogard® ETC (Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol alternatives)
What it is
An eco-certified preservation system combining organic acids and naturally derived components — protection without the preservative controversy.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Eco-Approved Preservation — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Provides broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection
• Supports formula safety and longevity
• Maintains integrity and performance in clean formulations
Why we chose it
Geogard ETC is selected for formulas that require a different preservation profile than Geogard 221 — broader compatibility across pH ranges and formula types. Like all our preservation choices, it's implemented because the formula needs it, not because it fits a label narrative. Product safety is the baseline. Everything else is extra.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
What it is
A naturally occurring antioxidant from plant oils — protecting the lipids in the formula the same way it protects the lipids in your skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Natural Antioxidant Systems — COSMOS Compliant
What it does
• Helps protect oils from oxidation
• Supports skin softness and conditioning
• Enhances overall formula stability and shelf life
Why we chose it
Vitamin E isn't in the formula for the label. It's there because lipid-rich formulas oxidize — and oxidized oils don't just smell off, they generate free radicals that can irritate skin and degrade actives. Tocopherol is the most effective plant-derived antioxidant for managing this, and it happens to also condition the skin. We use it at functional levels, not decorative ones. There's a difference.
Rosemary Extract (Rosmarinus officinalis)
What it is
A concentrated botanical antioxidant that keeps oils fresh in the formula — the unglamorous work that makes everything else last.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Natural Antioxidant Systems — COSMOS Compliant (Organic when applicable)
What it does
• Helps protect oils from oxidation
• Supports long-term formula stability
• Provides antioxidant support to lipid systems
Why we chose it
Rosemary extract is used here as an antioxidant stabilizer, not a skincare active — and we want to be clear about that distinction. Its rosmarinic acid and carnosic acid content are excellent at scavenging free radicals in lipid systems, which keeps oils from going rancid and formulas from degrading prematurely. It's honest, functional, and COSMOS compliant. We document it because transparency means telling you what every ingredient is actually doing — not just what sounds good.