Ingredient Profiles
Skincare science, made simple.
Certifications are referenced for transparency. Ingredient qualification is governed by the Hierarchy of Purity™ framework.
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Bisabolol — Skin-calming botanical active Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Ectoin— Cellular stress protection active Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Lupine Peptide— Supports firmness & elasticity Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Niacinamide — Refines texture & strengthens barrier Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Oat Beta Glucan — Soothes + reinforces the moisture barrier
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantOat Protein — Barrier-supportive scaffold protein Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Rice Protein — Amino acid scaffold complement Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
DL-Panthenol (Vitamin B5)— Moisture retention + repair
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantAllantoin — Calms irritation + supports skin repair
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantBakuchiol — Retinol-like renewal without irritation
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantBearberry Extract — Natural brightening and tone-evening active Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Sea Buckthorn Extract— Vitamin-rich antioxidant resilience
Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
(CO₂ versions also allowed under COSMOS)Gotu Kola Extract— Collagen-supporting botanical active
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantWillow Bark Extract — Natural BHA-like clarity
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantGreen Tea Extract — Antioxidant defense + calming support
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantLicorice Root Extract — Brightening + tone-calming support
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantChamomile Extract — Soothing comfort for sensitive skin
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantCucumber Extract — Cooling hydration + skin comfort
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantTremella Mushroom Extract — Sustained moisture reservoir and active delivery support Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Zinc PCA— Sebum-balancing active that supports clear, hydrated skin. Tier: Bio-Based (COSMOS-Compliant)
Hexapeptide-11— Bioengineered peptide that supports firmness and skin resilience. Tier: Bio-Based (COSMOS-Compliant)
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Glycerin — Foundational moisture retention
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantPropanediol 1,3 — Lightweight hydration + delivery support
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantSodium PCA — Bio-identical hydration and moisture retention
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantUrea — Deep hydration + texture softening
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantHyaluronic Acid Systems (HA 4D, Oleo-HA) — Multi-level hydration
Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards) -
Murumuru Butter— Cushiony barrier repair
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Cupuaçu Butter — Deep hydration + skin elasticity
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Kokum Butter — Dry-finish structure for anhydrous formulas Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)
Shea Butter — Nutrient-rich barrier nourishment
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Cocoa Butter — Protective richness + lasting softness
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Mango Butter — Lightweight nourishment + smooth barrier support
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Hemisqualane (Neossance)— Weightless slip + dry-touch feel
Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards)Squalane — Non-greasy replenishment
Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
(Biotech production permitted under COSMOS processing standards)Rosehip Oil— Skin renewal + barrier repair
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Jojoba Oil— Balancing, skin-mimicking moisture
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Meadowfoam Seed Oil— Ultra-stable lightweight emollient Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)
Moringa Oil— Antioxidant-rich nourishment
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Sweet Almond Oil— Softening, barrier-supporting fatty acids
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Camellia Seed Oil — Silky barrier-softening lipid
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Castor Oil — Barrier-sealing comfort + resilience
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Macadamia Oil— Omega-7-rich barrier nourishment Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (CCT / MCT)— Lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantCeramide NP/AP/EOP Complex — Multi-ceramide barrier reconstruction system Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
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Beeswax — Breathable barrier support and structural integrity. Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)
Candelilla Wax — Firm structure, heat stability, and elegant glide. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Cera Bellina — Crystallization control and dry-cushion film. Tier: Naturally Derived (Not COSMOS-Approved)
Jasmine Sambac Wax — Floral wax for structure and sensory refinement Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Rose Floral Wax — Floral wax for structure and natural scent identity Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Stearic Acid — Structure, stability, and rich, cushioned texture. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Cetearyl Alcohol— Creamy structure, stability, and elegant skin feel. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
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Coco-Caprylate/Caprate — Silicone-like glide without residue
Tier: COSMOS-compliantArrowroot Powder — Natural texture and oil-absorption agent Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Behenyl Alcohol — Structure and cushion without waxiness
Tier: COSMOS-compliantXanthan Gum — Fermentation-derived thickener for stability and elegant texture. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Olivem® 1000 MB — Skin-mimicking lamellar emulsification
Tier: COSMOS-compliantSilica Microspheres— Velvet-soft blur and luxurious glide. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Ester AB — Lightweight slip + refined spreadability
Tier: COSMOS CompliantBoron Nitride — Silky mineral for optical blurring and slip Tier: COSMOS-compliant
Fine Mica — Light-reflective mineral for subtle luminosity Tier: COSMOS-compliant
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Geogard® ETC — Broad-spectrum preservation system.
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantVitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols) — Antioxidant oil protector
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified)Rosemary Extract— Natural oil-phase antioxidant
Tier: Organic (certified) / COSMOS-Compliant (non-certified) -
Dimethicone (DM350)— High-purity slip and glide agent Tier: Science-Documented
Polyisobutene — Longwear film-forming anchor Tier: Science-Documented
Decyl Glucoside — Mild plant-derived surfactant for gentle, barrier-conscious cleansing. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Cocamidopropyl Betaine — Mild amphoteric surfactant that boosts cleansing while improving skin comfort. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate — Oil-to-milk emulsifier for effortless rinse-off. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
Sodium Gluconate — Hydration support + formula stability
Tier: COSMOS-CompliantVP/VA Copolymer— Flexible film former for color definition and wear Tier: Science-Documented
Citric Acid— Precision pH adjustment for formula stability and performance. Tier: COSMOS-Compliant
THE HIERARCHY OF PURITY™ (Quick Guide)
How Gladiateur Beauty™ evaluates every ingredient
Organic — The highest sourcing integrity tier for agricultural ingredients, including botanicals, oils, and butters, where certification is applicable and verifiable.
COSMOS-Compliant — Ingredients approved under the COSMOS standard, including actives, extracts, peptides, humectants, and preservation systems. ECOCERT-approved ingredients are treated as COSMOS-Compliant within this framework.
Bio-Based / Bio-Identical — Renewable or biotechnology-derived ingredients selected because they are highly compatible with skin biology or intentionally designed to mirror naturally occurring skin components. Evaluated on functional compatibility, sustainability of production, and skin performance. Examples: Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Bio-identical Ceramides, Bisabolol.
Naturally-Derived — Ingredients that originate from plant, mineral, or other natural sources and are processed into functional cosmetic materials without being bio-identical to naturally occurring skin components. Evaluated on origin integrity and processing transparency. Examples: Cera Bellina, Lecithin, Hemisqualane.
Science-Documented — Ingredients that do not meet Tiers 1–4 but are performance-justified, evidence-based, and supported by documented formulation rationale. Reserved for ingredients where currently available naturally derived or COSMOS-compliant alternatives require a meaningful compromise in performance, stability, or user experience. Examples: Dimethicone, Polyisobutene, select high-purity synthetics.
Every ingredient in a Gladiateur Beauty™ formula has been carefully evaluated and fully documented. Every ingredient earns its place.
High-Performance Actives
Bisabolol (α-Bisabolol)
What it is
A naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in chamomile and other botanicals, bisabolol is one of the most extensively studied skin-soothing ingredients in cosmetic science. It is valued for its ability to calm visible irritation while supporting overall skin comfort and barrier function.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps calm visible redness and irritation
Supports skin comfort and barrier recovery
Helps improve tolerance in sensitive and reactive skin
Can enhance the penetration of certain complementary ingredients
Contributes a soft, conditioned skin feel
Why we chose it
We chose bisabolol because calm skin performs better. When irritation is reduced, other ingredients can do their jobs without adding unnecessary stress to the skin. Its long history of safe cosmetic use, well-documented soothing properties, and compatibility with sensitive skin make it an ideal supporting ingredient across a wide range of formulations. It isn't the star of the formula—but it helps everything else do its job better.
References
Kamatou GPP, Viljoen AM. A Review of the Application and Pharmacological Properties of α-Bisabolol and α-Bisabolol-Rich Oils. (Chemistry, mechanism of action, and biological activity.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Bisabolol. (Independent cosmetic safety assessment.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
European Medicines Agency (EMA). Assessment Report on Matricaria chamomilla. (Botanical source and traditional dermatologic use.)
Ectoin (Ectoin)
What it is
A naturally derived ingredient produced through fermentation. Ectoin was first discovered in microorganisms that survive extreme conditions like salt lakes and deserts, where it helps protect them from environmental stress.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps protect skin from environmental and UV-induced stress
Supports the skin's natural moisture retention system
Helps calm visible redness and irritation
Strengthens skin resilience under everyday environmental stress
Helps stabilize cellular structures to support overall skin health
Why we chose it
We chose ectoin because protecting the skin is just as important as repairing it. Its unique ability to help stabilize cells under environmental stress makes it a valuable addition to barrier-focused formulations, especially for sensitive or reactive skin. Produced through fermentation and supported by a growing body of clinical research, ectoin complements traditional barrier ingredients by helping the skin stay resilient before visible damage has a chance to occur. Rather than chasing short-term results, it supports the long-term health and durability of the skin.
References
Bünger J, et al. Research on ectoin and cellular protection under environmental stress. (Mechanism of action and skin protection.)
Marini A, et al. Clinical studies evaluating ectoin for sensitive skin, barrier support, and environmental stress. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Lupine Peptide (Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein)
What it is
A plant-derived protein obtained from Lupinus albus (white lupine). Through hydrolysis, the protein is broken into smaller peptides that help support skin firmness, hydration, and barrier function.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps support skin firmness and elasticity
Strengthens the skin's moisture barrier
Improves hydration retention
Helps skin recover from environmental stress
Why we chose it
We chose lupine peptide because it delivers meaningful performance from a naturally derived source. It supports skin firmness and hydration while fitting seamlessly into barrier-focused formulations designed for sensitive skin. Rather than relying on more aggressive or heavily engineered alternatives, it provides well-documented skin benefits with excellent compatibility—exactly the kind of balance we look for when selecting ingredients.
References
Clinical studies evaluating Lupinus albus peptides for skin firmness and hydration. (Clinical efficacy.)
Research on hydrolyzed plant proteins and skin conditioning. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Niacinamide (Niacinamide)
What it is
A bio-identical form of Vitamin B3 that supports barrier function, skin resilience, and overall skin health. Widely studied in dermatology, niacinamide is valued for its ability to improve multiple aspects of skin function while remaining well tolerated across a broad range of skin types.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps strengthen the skin barrier
Improves the appearance of uneven skin texture and visible pores
Helps balance excess oil and promote clearer-looking skin
Helps calm the appearance of redness and irritation
Why we chose it
Niacinamide embodies the kind of ingredient Gladiateur looks for: scientifically well established, biologically compatible, and genuinely multifunctional. Rather than relying on aggressive mechanisms or trend-driven claims, it supports the skin's natural processes while delivering benefits that are consistently documented across decades of research. Its exceptional versatility allows it to contribute meaningfully to a wide range of formulations without compromising skin comfort, making it a foundational active in our approach to barrier-focused skincare.
References
Gehring W. Nicotinamide and the Skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. (Clinical review and dermatologic applications.)
Bae-Harboe YSC, Park HY. Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Nutrients. (Mechanism of action and clinical evidence.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Niacinamide and Niacin. (Independent cosmetic safety assessment.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Oat Beta-Glucan (Beta-Glucan)
What it is
A naturally derived polysaccharide extracted from oats. Long studied for its soothing and barrier-supporting properties, beta-glucan is valued for its ability to help calm stressed skin while supporting hydration and overall skin resilience.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps soothe stressed and reactive skin
Strengthens the skin's moisture barrier
Enhances hydration retention
Supports the skin's natural repair processes
Why we chose it
We chose oat beta-glucan because it consistently delivers the kind of support sensitive skin actually needs. It helps calm irritation, reinforces the skin barrier, and works alongside other barrier-focused ingredients without adding unnecessary complexity to the formula. Sometimes the best-performing ingredients aren't the newest ones—they're the ones that have earned decades of trust through consistent results. Beta-glucan is one of them.
References
Vetvicka V, Vetvickova J. Research on β-glucans and skin biology. (Mechanism of action and biological activity.)
Clinical studies evaluating oat beta-glucan for hydration, barrier support, and skin recovery. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Oat Protein (Hydrolyzed Oat Protein)
What it is
A hydrolyzed protein derived from oats. By breaking the protein into smaller fragments, it interacts more effectively with the skin to help support hydration, barrier function, and overall skin comfort.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps support barrier integrity and resilience
Calms stressed and reactive skin
Improves moisture retention
Helps condition and strengthen the skin
Why we chose it
We chose hydrolyzed oat protein because it brings a different set of strengths than other plant proteins. It supports hydration, barrier function, and skin conditioning while complementing the other barrier-support ingredients in our formulas. Rather than relying on a single ingredient to do everything, we combine ingredients that work together—because thoughtful formulation almost always outperforms chasing one "hero" ingredient.
References
Clinical studies evaluating hydrolyzed oat proteins for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
Research on oat-derived proteins and skin hydration. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Rice Protein (Hydrolyzed Rice Protein)
What it is
A hydrolyzed protein derived from rice. By breaking the protein into smaller fragments, it helps support skin conditioning, hydration, and barrier function while contributing a lightweight, elegant skin feel.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps improve skin texture and smoothness
Supports hydration and moisture retention
Helps condition and strengthen the skin
Contributes to overall barrier support
Why we chose it
We chose hydrolyzed rice protein because every plant protein brings something different to a formula. Rice protein is lightweight, highly compatible with sensitive skin, and complements other barrier-support ingredients without overwhelming the formula. Rather than relying on a single ingredient to do everything, we select ingredients that contribute their own strengths—creating formulas that are more balanced, resilient, and effective as a whole.
References
Research on hydrolyzed rice protein and skin conditioning. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Clinical studies evaluating hydrolyzed rice protein for hydration and skin conditioning. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
DL-Panthenol (Panthenol)
What it is
A bio-identical provitamin that converts to pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) when applied to the skin. Widely used in skincare, panthenol is valued for its ability to support hydration, barrier function, and overall skin health.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Improves moisture retention
Softens and smooths the skin
Supports barrier repair
Helps calm visible irritation
Why we chose it
We chose panthenol because it's one of the most dependable barrier-support ingredients available. It improves hydration, supports skin recovery, and works exceptionally well alongside virtually every other barrier-focused ingredient we formulate with. Its long history of safe cosmetic use, excellent skin compatibility, and consistently documented performance make it the kind of ingredient that earns a permanent place in a formula—not because it's trendy, but because it works.
References
Ebner F, Heller A, Rippke F, Tausch I. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. (Clinical efficacy and barrier repair.)
Proksch E, et al. Research on panthenol and skin barrier function. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Panthenol. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Allantoin (Allantoin)
What it is
A bio-identical compound naturally found in plants like comfrey. In skincare, it's produced in a bio-identical form to provide greater purity and consistency while delivering the same skin-supporting benefits.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps calm visible irritation
Supports skin comfort and recovery
Softens rough or stressed skin
Improves the overall feel of active formulations
Why we chose it
We chose allantoin because even high-performance formulas should be comfortable to use. It helps calm the skin, supports recovery, and works alongside active ingredients to improve overall skin comfort without interfering with their performance. Its long history of safe cosmetic use, excellent compatibility with sensitive skin, and dependable results make it one of those ingredients that quietly improves almost every formula it's part of.
References
Fiume MM, et al. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Allantoin. (Safety.)
Research on allantoin and skin barrier support, wound healing, and skin conditioning. (Mechanism of action and biological activity.)
Clinical studies evaluating topical allantoin for skin soothing and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Bakuchiol (Bakuchiol)
What it is
A plant-derived active extracted from Psoralea corylifolia (babchi). Bakuchiol is widely recognized for providing many of the skin-renewing benefits associated with retinol while being well tolerated by many people with sensitive skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Supports skin renewal and smoother-looking skin
Helps improve the appearance of fine lines
Promotes a more even-looking tone and texture
Enhances overall skin clarity
Why we chose it
We chose bakuchiol because it delivers meaningful performance without demanding unnecessary trade-offs. It supports smoother, healthier-looking skin while fitting comfortably into barrier-focused formulations designed for sensitive skin. Although it isn't retinol—and doesn't try to be—it offers a well-documented alternative for those who want visible skin-renewing benefits without the irritation that often limits traditional retinoid use.
References
Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound Revealed by Gene Expression Profiling and Clinically Proven to Have Anti-Aging Effects. (Mechanism of action and clinical efficacy.)
Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Bearberry Extract (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Leaf Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract from bearberry leaves, standardized for its naturally occurring arbutin content. Bearberry has long been used in skincare for its ability to help promote a more even-looking skin tone while remaining gentle on the skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps improve the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone
Helps reduce the appearance of discoloration by supporting a more balanced-looking complexion
Provides antioxidant support
Helps soothe and calm the skin
Why we chose it
We chose bearberry extract because it approaches skin brightening through a well-understood, skin-friendly pathway. Its naturally occurring arbutin helps reduce the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production, making it a thoughtful choice for improving the appearance of uneven skin tone without relying on harsher brightening ingredients. It aligns well with our barrier-focused approach by supporting visible results while respecting sensitive skin.
References
Lin JY, Fisher DE. Melanocyte Biology and Skin Pigmentation. (Mechanism of action and pigmentation biology.)
Research on arbutin and tyrosinase inhibition for cosmetic skin brightening. (Clinical efficacy and mechanism of action.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Sea Buckthorn Extract (Hippophae rhamnoides Fruit Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract from the fruit of the sea buckthorn plant. Rich in antioxidants, carotenoids, and naturally occurring fatty acids, it has long been valued for its ability to help nourish and support healthy-looking skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Supports skin resilience and recovery
Helps improve the appearance of uneven skin tone
Provides antioxidant support against environmental stress
Nourishes and softens the skin
Why we chose it
We chose sea buckthorn extract because it offers far more than antioxidant support alone. Its naturally occurring blend of carotenoids, fatty acids, and other beneficial compounds makes it a valuable ingredient for supporting skin recovery and maintaining a healthy-looking barrier. Rather than relying on a single standout component, sea buckthorn delivers a broad spectrum of nutrients that work together to support overall skin health—an approach that fits naturally with how we formulate.
References
Research on Hippophae rhamnoides and its phytochemical composition. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Clinical studies evaluating sea buckthorn extract for skin barrier support and antioxidant activity. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Gotu Kola Extract (Centella asiatica Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract with a long history of traditional use and a growing body of modern research supporting its role in skin health. Gotu kola is valued for helping support skin resilience, firmness, and overall barrier function.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps support skin firmness and elasticity
Improves the appearance of fine lines
Helps calm and strengthen the skin
Provides antioxidant support
Why we chose it
We chose gotu kola because few botanical ingredients combine such a long history of traditional use with such a strong foundation of modern research. Its naturally occurring triterpenoids help support the skin's structural integrity while complementing other barrier-focused ingredients. It delivers meaningful performance without compromising skin comfort, making it a natural fit for formulations designed to support healthy, resilient skin over time.
References
James JT, Dubery IA. Pentacyclic Triterpenoids from Centella asiatica (L.) Urban. (Mechanism of action and active compounds.)
Research evaluating Centella asiatica for skin firmness, wound healing, and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Willow Bark Extract (Salix alba Bark Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract from white willow bark that contains naturally occurring salicylates. It has long been used in skincare to help support clearer-looking skin while providing a gentler approach to exfoliation than traditional beta hydroxy acids.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps clarify and refine skin texture
Supports clearer-looking pores
Provides gentle surface-level exfoliation
Helps balance and soothe the skin
Why we chose it
We chose willow bark extract because not every formula needs the intensity of a traditional BHA. Its naturally occurring salicylates help refine and clarify the skin while remaining compatible with formulations designed for sensitive or reactive skin. It won't replace a dedicated salicylic acid treatment—and it isn't meant to. Instead, it offers a gentler approach to maintaining clearer, smoother-looking skin while supporting the overall balance of the formula.
References
Research on Salix alba extract and naturally occurring salicylates. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Clinical studies evaluating willow bark extract for skin clarity and texture. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Green Tea Extract (Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract*)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract rich in polyphenols, particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). Green tea has been extensively studied for its antioxidant properties and its ability to help protect skin from everyday environmental stress.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides antioxidant support against environmental stress
Helps calm visible redness and reactivity
Supports overall skin resilience
Enhances skin comfort in daily-use formulations
Why we chose it
We chose green tea extract because it's one of the best-documented botanical antioxidants available. Its naturally occurring polyphenols help defend the skin against environmental stress while supporting overall skin comfort and resilience. Rather than relying on bold claims or short-lived trends, green tea has earned its place through decades of consistent research and dependable performance—exactly the kind of ingredient we look for when building formulas designed for long-term skin health.
References
Katiyar SK. Green Tea Prevents Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer by Enhancing DNA Repair. (Mechanism of action and antioxidant biology.)
Research evaluating green tea polyphenols (EGCG) for skin protection and environmental stress. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra Root Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract from licorice root, valued for its ability to help promote a brighter, more even-looking complexion. Its naturally occurring compounds, including glabridin, have been widely studied for both skin-brightening and soothing properties.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps brighten and even the appearance of skin tone
Helps calm visible redness and reactivity
Supports skin clarity and balance
Enhances overall skin radiance
Why we chose it
We chose licorice root extract because it supports two goals at the same time: a more even-looking complexion and calmer, more comfortable skin. Its naturally occurring glabridin helps reduce the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production, while its soothing properties make it well suited for sensitive and redness-prone skin. Rather than focusing on brightening alone, it helps improve overall skin tone in a way that aligns with our barrier-focused approach to formulation.
References
Draelos ZD. Research on topical licorice extract for skin brightening and calming. (Clinical efficacy.)
Research on glabridin and tyrosinase inhibition in cosmetic applications. (Mechanism of action.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Chamomile Extract (Chamomilla recutita Flower Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract long valued for its ability to help soothe and comfort the skin. Chamomile contains naturally occurring compounds, including bisabolol and chamazulene, that have been widely studied for their skin-calming properties.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps soothe visible irritation and redness
Supports overall skin comfort
Helps reduce the appearance of sensitivity
Reinforces a healthy skin barrier
Why we chose it
We chose chamomile extract because calm skin is healthier skin. Its naturally occurring compounds help reduce visible irritation while supporting overall skin comfort, making it an ideal partner for barrier-focused formulations. Rather than relying on a single soothing ingredient, we combine ingredients that complement one another—and chamomile has earned its place through decades of trusted use and well-documented research.
References
McKay DL, Blumberg JB. A Review of the Bioactivity and Potential Health Benefits of Chamomile Tea (Matricaria recutita L.). (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Research evaluating chamomile extract, bisabolol, and chamazulene for skin soothing and anti-inflammatory activity. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Cucumber Extract (Cucumis sativus Fruit Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract valued for its lightweight hydrating and skin-soothing properties. Cucumber has long been used in skincare to help refresh the skin while supporting overall comfort and hydration.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides lightweight hydration
Helps soothe and refresh the skin
Supports skin comfort and softness
Improves the overall feel of the formula
Why we chose it
We chose cucumber extract because not every ingredient needs to make dramatic claims to be valuable. It provides lightweight hydration, helps improve skin comfort, and complements other barrier-support ingredients without adding heaviness or irritation. Sometimes thoughtful formulation is about knowing when a gentle, dependable ingredient is exactly what's needed—and cucumber extract has earned that role through years of reliable use.
References
Research evaluating Cucumis sativus extract for skin hydration and soothing properties. (Clinical efficacy.)
Research on the phytochemical composition and antioxidant activity of cucumber extract. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Tremella Mushroom Extract (Tremella fuciformis Sporocarp Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical extract from the snow mushroom, rich in polysaccharides that help attract and retain moisture. Tremella is valued for its ability to support long-lasting hydration while contributing a smooth, comfortable feel to the skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Supports long-lasting skin hydration
Helps improve skin softness and suppleness
Forms a lightweight moisture-retaining film on the skin
Provides antioxidant support
Enhances overall skin comfort
Why we chose it
We chose tremella mushroom extract because hydration isn't just about adding water—it's about helping the skin hold onto it. Its naturally occurring polysaccharides create a lightweight moisture-retaining film that complements humectants and other barrier-support ingredients, helping the skin stay hydrated without feeling heavy or occlusive. Rather than trying to replace ingredients like hyaluronic acid, tremella brings its own strengths to the formula, making the overall hydration system more balanced and effective.
References
Research on Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides and skin hydration. (Mechanism of action and polysaccharide chemistry.)
Clinical studies evaluating tremella mushroom extract for skin hydration and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Zinc PCA (Zinc PCA)
What it is
A bio-identical skin-conditioning ingredient that combines zinc with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a natural component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Together, they help balance oil production while supporting hydration and overall skin health.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps balance excess oil production
Supports a clearer-looking complexion
Contributes to long-lasting hydration through PCA
Helps maintain the skin's natural barrier balance
Supports overall skin comfort and resilience
Why we chose it
We chose Zinc PCA because it addresses one of skincare's most common challenges without creating another. By combining the sebum-balancing properties of zinc with the moisture-binding benefits of PCA, it helps support clearer, more balanced skin without the dryness often associated with traditional oil-control ingredients. It's particularly well suited for daily-use formulations because it works with the skin's natural physiology rather than against it. Multifunctional, well documented, and exceptionally skin compatible, it reflects our preference for ingredients that solve multiple problems through thoughtful formulation rather than unnecessary complexity.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
Research on Zinc PCA for sebum regulation, skin conditioning, and barrier support. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Clinical studies evaluating Zinc PCA for oily and blemish-prone skin. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Hexapeptide-11 (Hexapeptide-11)
What it is
A bioengineered signaling peptide originally identified through yeast fermentation research. Hexapeptide-11 helps support skin firmness, elasticity, and resilience by encouraging the skin's natural renewal processes.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Supports firmer, more resilient-looking skin
Helps improve the appearance of elasticity
Promotes a smoother, more youthful-looking complexion
Supports the skin's natural renewal processes
Contributes to overall skin conditioning
Why we chose it
We chose Hexapeptide-11 because healthy-looking skin depends on more than hydration alone. As a bioengineered signaling peptide, it helps support the skin's natural renewal pathways associated with firmness and resilience. Unlike ingredients that simply moisturize or temporarily smooth the surface, peptides work by communicating with the skin's own biological processes. Hexapeptide-11 is particularly interesting because of its origins in longevity research and its documented ability to support the appearance of stronger, healthier skin over time. It reflects our philosophy of selecting ingredients that encourage the skin to perform at its best rather than simply masking visible concerns.
References
Research evaluating Hexapeptide-11 for skin firmness, elasticity, and anti-aging applications. (Mechanism of action and clinical performance.)
Studies on bioactive peptides in cosmetic science and skin conditioning. (Formulation science.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), where applicable, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard, where applicable. (Ingredient compliance.)
Hydrators (Humectants)
Glycerin (Glycerin)
What it is
A bio-identical humectant naturally present in the skin. Glycerin is one of the most reliable and well-studied moisture-binding ingredients in skincare, valued for its ability to attract and retain water while supporting a healthy skin barrier.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Draws moisture into the skin
Supports long-term hydration
Helps maintain a healthy skin barrier
Improves overall skin comfort and resilience
Why we chose it
We chose glycerin because decades of research continue to confirm what formulators have known for years: it simply works. It provides dependable hydration, supports barrier function, and performs consistently across virtually every type of skincare formula. While newer humectants regularly enter the market, glycerin remains the benchmark—not because it's familiar, but because it continues to deliver reliable results. Sometimes the best ingredient isn't the newest one. It's the one that has earned its reputation through performance.
References
Fluhr JW, Darlenski R, Surber C. Research on glycerol and skin hydration. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Research evaluating glycerin for skin hydration and barrier function. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Glycerin. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Propanediol 1,3 (Propanediol)
What it is
A bio-based humectant produced through the fermentation of plant sugars. In addition to helping attract moisture to the skin, propanediol also improves ingredient solubility and contributes to a lighter, more elegant skin feel.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Based
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Attracts and retains moisture
Enhances the solubility of active ingredients
Improves formula texture and skin feel
Supports the effectiveness of preservative systems
Why we chose it
We chose propanediol because it does more than hydrate. It helps dissolve and distribute active ingredients, improves the overall feel of a formula, and supports preservation without adding unnecessary complexity. Its plant-based origin and excellent compatibility with sensitive skin make it a natural fit for our formulations. When one ingredient can improve both performance and sensory experience, it's an easy choice.
References
Research on propanediol as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Clinical and formulation studies evaluating propanediol for skin hydration and sensory performance. (Clinical efficacy and functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Sodium PCA (Sodium PCA)
What it is
A bio-identical humectant naturally found in the skin as part of its Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Sodium PCA helps attract and retain moisture, making it one of the skin's own hydration-support ingredients.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Supports deep, long-lasting hydration
Helps reduce transepidermal moisture loss
Improves skin softness and flexibility
Strengthens the skin's natural moisture balance
Why we chose it
We chose sodium PCA because it works with the skin's own hydration system rather than trying to replace it. As a naturally occurring component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor, it helps maintain moisture where the skin needs it most while complementing other humectants and barrier-support ingredients. Its excellent skin compatibility, dependable performance, and long history of cosmetic use make it a foundational ingredient in formulas designed to support healthy, resilient skin.
References
Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and Skin Barrier Function. (Mechanism of action and Natural Moisturizing Factor.)
Research evaluating sodium PCA for skin hydration and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Urea (Urea)
What it is
A bio-identical component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). At the low concentrations used in our formulas, urea is an exceptional humectant that helps hydrate, soften, and support the skin barrier. Higher concentrations are used clinically for exfoliation—but we stay in the hydration lane.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Enhances moisture retention
Softens rough or textured skin
Supports gentle surface renewal at cosmetic concentrations
Improves barrier flexibility and skin comfort
Why we chose it
We chose urea because it works with one of the skin's own natural hydration systems. As a naturally occurring component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor, it helps improve moisture retention, soften rough skin, and support a healthy barrier without relying on aggressive exfoliation. It's a remarkably effective ingredient that's often overlooked simply because its name sounds more clinical than cosmetic—but performance has always mattered more to us than perception.
References
Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and Skin Barrier Function. (Mechanism of action and Natural Moisturizing Factor.)
Grether-Beck S, et al. Research on topical urea and skin hydration. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Urea. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Hyaluronic Acid Systems (Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Oleosome-Encapsulated Sodium Hyaluronate)
What it is
A multi-molecular system of bio-identical humectants designed to provide both immediate and long-lasting hydration. By combining multiple forms of hyaluronic acid, the system supports moisture retention through complementary mechanisms rather than relying on a single ingredient.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based / Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides immediate and sustained hydration
Helps improve the appearance of plump, healthy-looking skin
Supports barrier comfort and flexibility
Improves overall smoothness and skin feel
Why we chose it
We chose a hyaluronic acid system because no single form does everything equally well. Different molecular weights and delivery technologies each contribute their own strengths, creating a more balanced and complete approach to hydration than any one form alone. Rather than chasing the highest percentage of a single ingredient, we focus on building hydration systems that work together—because thoughtful formulation is about how ingredients complement one another, not how loudly they can be advertised.
References
Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic Acid: A Key Molecule in Skin Aging. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Research evaluating multi-molecular hyaluronic acid systems for skin hydration and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Sodium Hyaluronate and Related Ingredients. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Emollients & Barrier Oils
Where agricultural sourcing applies, Gladiateur prioritizes organically sourced ingredients for improved traceability and reduced contaminant risk.
This category includes oils and butters derived directly from plants — where farming practices meaningfully impact purity.
Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum murumuru Seed Butter)
What it is
A naturally derived butter obtained from the seeds of the murumuru palm. Rich in beneficial fatty acids, murumuru butter is valued for its ability to nourish the skin while providing a smooth, cushiony feel that melts beautifully on contact.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Deeply moisturizes and softens the skin
Supports a healthy moisture barrier
Helps reduce transepidermal water loss
Improves skin comfort and suppleness
Why we chose it
We chose murumuru butter because it offers rich nourishment without feeling overly heavy or waxy on the skin. Its unique fatty acid profile creates a soft, cushiony skin feel while supporting barrier function, making it an excellent choice for products designed to comfort dry or sensitive skin. When a formula needs richness without sacrificing elegance, murumuru consistently earns its place.
References
Research on the fatty acid composition and cosmetic properties of Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating murumuru butter for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Cupuaçu Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum Seed Butter)
What it is
A naturally derived butter obtained from the seeds of the cupuaçu tree. Rich in beneficial fatty acids and phytosterols, cupuaçu butter is especially valued for its exceptional ability to help retain moisture while supporting soft, healthy-looking skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Provides long-lasting hydration
Improves skin softness and suppleness
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Helps improve skin comfort and flexibility
Why we chose it
We chose cupuaçu butter because it offers something many botanical butters don't: exceptional water-binding capacity alongside rich emollient properties. It helps the skin hold onto moisture while delivering a soft, plush skin feel without becoming overly heavy. When a formula needs both nourishment and lasting hydration, cupuaçu butter brings a combination of performance and elegance that's difficult to replicate.
References
Research on the composition and water-binding properties of Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating cupuaçu butter for skin hydration and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii Butter)
What it is
A naturally derived butter long valued for its rich emollient properties and exceptional ability to nourish dry skin. Shea butter has earned its reputation through decades of use in skincare, where it continues to be one of the most trusted ingredients for supporting the skin barrier.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Deeply nourishes and softens the skin
Supports a healthy skin barrier
Helps calm dryness and visible irritation
Improves overall skin comfort and flexibility
Why we chose it
We chose shea butter because few botanical ingredients have earned such a long-standing reputation through consistent performance. Its rich blend of fatty acids and naturally occurring unsaponifiables helps nourish the skin, support the moisture barrier, and improve lasting skin comfort. While new ingredients come and go, shea butter continues to prove that dependable performance never goes out of style.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Butyrospermum parkii butter. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating shea butter for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Shea Butter. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao Seed Butter)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical butter prized for its rich, protective properties and exceptional stability. Cocoa butter forms a long-lasting moisture barrier while providing lasting softness and comfort to dry skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens and smooths the skin
Forms a protective barrier to reduce moisture loss
Improves skin comfort and flexibility
Provides long-lasting nourishment
Why we chose it
We chose cocoa butter when a formula needs lasting protection and staying power. Its naturally stable composition helps create a durable moisture barrier that keeps dry skin comfortable without sacrificing elegance during application. Just as importantly, its excellent oxidative stability supports the overall integrity of the formula, making it a dependable choice for products designed to nourish and protect the skin over time.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Theobroma cacao seed butter. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating cocoa butter for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Kokum Butter (Garcinia indica Seed Butter)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical butter obtained from the seeds of the kokum tree. Unlike many richer butters, kokum is prized for its firm texture, quick absorption, and naturally dry, elegant finish.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Provides structure in anhydrous formulas without a heavy or waxy feel
Absorbs quickly with a naturally dry, non-greasy finish
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Improves the texture and stability of balms and stick formulations
Why we chose it
We chose kokum butter because it offers something few botanical butters can: structure without heaviness. Its naturally firm consistency helps create stable balms and stick formulas while maintaining a clean, dry finish on the skin. Rather than relying on additional waxes to build structure, kokum allows us to create products that feel lighter, more elegant, and more comfortable to wear without compromising performance.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Garcinia indica seed butter. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating kokum butter for skin conditioning and formulation performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Mango Butter (Mangifera indica Seed Butter)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical butter known for its balanced texture and lightweight skin feel. Mango butter provides rich nourishment while absorbing more quickly than many traditional plant butters.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens and conditions the skin
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Helps reduce dryness without feeling heavy
Improves overall skin smoothness and comfort
Why we chose it
We chose mango butter because it delivers nourishing barrier support with a lighter touch than many richer botanical butters. It spreads easily, absorbs comfortably, and blends exceptionally well with other oils and butters, making it an ideal choice when a formula needs richness without becoming overly dense or greasy. It helps create products that feel balanced, comfortable, and elegant on the skin.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Mangifera indica seed butter. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating mango butter for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Hemisqualane (Hemisqualane)
What it is
A bio-based lightweight emollient produced through the fermentation of sugarcane. Its low molecular weight gives it an exceptionally light, silky feel, making it ideal for formulas that need fast absorption without a greasy finish.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Improves slip and spreadability
Absorbs quickly with a lightweight, dry-touch finish
Softens and conditions the skin
Enhances overall skin comfort without heaviness
Why we chose it
We chose hemisqualane because elegant skincare should feel effortless on the skin. Its lightweight texture helps reduce heaviness while improving spreadability and creating a smooth, silky finish that complements richer oils and butters. Produced from renewable plant sugars through biotechnology, it delivers outstanding sensory performance while aligning with our approach to modern, thoughtfully sourced ingredients.
References
Research on hemisqualane and bio-based emollients in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating hemisqualane for sensory performance and skin conditioning. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Squalane (Squalane)
What it is
A bio-identical lipid that closely resembles the squalene naturally found in healthy skin. Produced through biotechnology from renewable plant sugars, squalane is prized for its exceptional skin compatibility and elegant, lightweight feel.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Replenishes essential skin lipids
Supports a healthy moisture barrier
Helps maintain hydration without heaviness
Improves skin softness and elasticity
Why we chose it
We chose squalane because it works in harmony with the skin's natural lipid barrier. It provides lightweight nourishment, improves skin comfort, and helps reduce moisture loss without leaving a greasy or occlusive finish. Its remarkable skin compatibility and elegant feel make it one of the most versatile emollients available, and a foundational ingredient in formulations designed to support healthy, resilient skin.
References
Research on squalane and skin barrier function. (Mechanism of action and skin physiology.)
Clinical studies evaluating squalane for skin hydration and barrier support. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Squalane. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Rosehip Oil (Rosa canina Fruit Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived oil obtained from the seeds of the rosehip fruit. Rich in essential fatty acids and naturally occurring antioxidants, rosehip oil has long been valued for supporting healthy-looking, resilient skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Supports skin resilience and visible renewal
Helps improve the appearance of uneven skin tone
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Softens and smooths the skin
Why we chose it
We chose rosehip oil because its naturally high concentration of linoleic and alpha-linolenic fatty acids makes it an exceptional barrier-supporting oil. It nourishes the skin while helping maintain a healthy moisture barrier, making it especially well suited for formulas designed to support dry, stressed, or compromised skin. Rather than relying on marketing mythology, we value rosehip for what decades of research consistently support: a lightweight botanical oil with excellent skin compatibility and dependable performance.
References
Research on the composition and dermatological properties of Rosa canina fruit oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating rosehip oil for skin barrier support, hydration, and the appearance of scars and photoaging. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis Seed Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived liquid wax obtained from the seeds of the jojoba plant. Although commonly called an oil, jojoba is technically a liquid wax ester, giving it exceptional stability and excellent compatibility with the skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens and conditions the skin
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Helps reduce moisture loss without feeling heavy
Improves overall skin comfort and suppleness
Why we chose it
We chose jojoba because few botanical lipids combine such exceptional stability with such an elegant skin feel. Its wax ester composition closely resembles components naturally found in human sebum, making it remarkably compatible with a wide range of skin types. Lightweight, highly stable, and resistant to oxidation, jojoba helps create balanced formulations that nourish the skin without feeling greasy or overly occlusive.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Simmondsia chinensis seed oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating jojoba wax esters for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Jojoba Oil. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes alba Seed Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical oil known for its exceptionally stable fatty acid profile. Meadowfoam seed oil combines lightweight skin conditioning with remarkable resistance to oxidation, making it valuable for both skin care and formulation stability.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Provides lightweight, long-lasting moisture
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Improves skin softness and suppleness
Contributes to the oxidative stability of lipid-rich formulas
Helps maintain long-term formula integrity
Why we chose it
We chose meadowfoam seed oil because performance doesn't end with the skin—it also includes how well a formula holds up over time. Its unusually stable fatty acid profile provides lightweight nourishment while helping maintain the integrity of lipid-rich formulations. For products designed to deliver consistent performance throughout their shelf life, meadowfoam offers a combination of elegant skin feel and exceptional stability that's difficult to match.
References
Research on the composition and oxidative stability of Limnanthes alba seed oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating meadowfoam seed oil for skin conditioning and formulation stability. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Moringa Oil (Moringa oleifera Seed Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical oil prized for its rich fatty acid profile and exceptional oxidative stability. Moringa oil provides lasting nourishment while maintaining an elegant, lightweight feel on the skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Nourishes and softens the skin
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Provides antioxidant support against environmental stress
Improves skin suppleness and comfort
Why we chose it
We chose moringa oil because it offers an exceptional balance of nourishment, stability, and elegance. Its naturally balanced fatty acid profile helps support the skin barrier while its remarkable oxidative stability makes it a dependable choice for complex formulations. It delivers rich conditioning without feeling overly heavy, making it equally valuable for both skin performance and long-term formula integrity.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Moringa oleifera seed oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating moringa oil for skin conditioning, antioxidant activity, and oxidative stability. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical oil long valued for its gentle, nourishing properties. Rich in oleic and linoleic fatty acids, sweet almond oil helps soften the skin while supporting a healthy moisture barrier.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens and smooths the skin
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Helps reduce dryness and roughness
Improves overall skin comfort
Why we chose it
We chose sweet almond oil because consistency matters. Its balanced fatty acid profile provides dependable nourishment, excellent skin compatibility, and an elegant skin feel that works well across a wide range of formulations. While it may not be the trendiest botanical oil, its long history of cosmetic use and reliable performance have made it a trusted ingredient for generations—and we believe proven ingredients deserve a place alongside newer innovations.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating sweet almond oil for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Sweet Almond Oil. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Camellia Seed Oil (Camellia oleifera Seed Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical oil prized for its lightweight feel and exceptionally high oleic acid content. Camellia seed oil has a long history of use in Japanese skincare and remains valued today for its elegant skin feel and nourishing properties.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens and conditions the skin
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Helps reduce moisture loss
Improves skin suppleness and comfort
Why we chose it
We chose camellia seed oil because it delivers rich nourishment with an exceptionally lightweight finish. Its naturally high oleic acid content gives it excellent skin compatibility while allowing it to spread easily and absorb comfortably without feeling greasy. It brings together elegance, nourishment, and dependable barrier support—qualities we value in every botanical oil we select.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Camellia oleifera seed oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating camellia seed oil for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Castor Oil (Ricinus communis Seed Oil)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical oil distinguished by its exceptionally high concentration of ricinoleic acid—a fatty acid rarely found in nature. This unique composition gives castor oil functional properties that set it apart from most other plant oils used in skincare.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Softens and conditions dry or stressed skin
Enhances slip and application in anhydrous formulations
Helps reduce transepidermal water loss
Why we chose it
We chose castor oil because its unique fatty acid profile gives it properties that are difficult to replicate with other botanical oils. It adds richness, improves glide, and helps create a more protective barrier while contributing to the structure and performance of balms and other anhydrous formulas. When a formula calls for lasting comfort and a substantial, conditioning feel, castor oil consistently earns its place.
References
Research on the composition and cosmetic properties of Ricinus communis seed oil. (Mechanism of action and botanical chemistry.)
Studies evaluating castor oil for skin conditioning and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Castor Oil. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Macadamia Oil (Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil)
What it is
A lightweight botanical oil exceptionally rich in palmitoleic acid—an omega-7 fatty acid naturally found in healthy skin. Its unique lipid profile makes it especially well suited for supporting barrier function, softness, and skin conditioning.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens and nourishes the skin
Supports the skin's natural moisture barrier
Improves suppleness and elasticity
Helps reduce moisture loss
Contributes a lightweight, elegant skin feel
Why we chose it
We chose macadamia oil because its fatty acid profile closely complements the skin's own lipid composition. It's one of the richest botanical sources of palmitoleic acid, an omega-7 fatty acid that naturally declines as skin ages. That makes it particularly valuable in formulations designed to support barrier function, comfort, and resilience. Despite its richness, macadamia oil absorbs quickly and leaves behind a soft, conditioned finish rather than a heavy residue. It combines exceptional skin compatibility with elegant sensory performance—exactly the balance we look for in a barrier-supporting emollient.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Macadamia Seed Oil. (Safety.)
Research on macadamia oil composition, palmitoleic acid, and skin barrier support. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating macadamia oil for emolliency, skin conditioning, and oxidative stability. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT) (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
What it is
A lightweight emollient made from coconut-derived fatty acids and glycerin. Highly stable and exceptionally silky, CCT is valued for improving skin feel while helping create elegant, fast-absorbing formulations.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Softens and smooths the skin
Improves spreadability and glide
Helps reduce the feeling of heaviness in oil-rich formulas
Supports the stability and balance of the oil phase
Why we chose it
We chose CCT because elegant skincare should feel effortless. It provides lightweight conditioning, improves spreadability, and helps richer oils and butters feel more refined on the skin without compromising their nourishing properties. Its exceptional oxidative stability and neutral character also make it a dependable choice for building formulas that perform consistently over time. It's a behind-the-scenes ingredient that quietly improves almost every formula it's part of.
References
Research on caprylic/capric triglyceride as an emollient and formulation aid. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating CCT for skin conditioning, sensory performance, and oxidative stability. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Ceramide NP/AP/EOP Complex (Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP)
What it is
A bio-identical multi-ceramide system combining three ceramides naturally found in the skin's barrier. Together, they help support the lipid matrix responsible for maintaining healthy, resilient skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Identical
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Replenishes essential skin ceramides
Strengthens the skin's moisture barrier
Helps reduce transepidermal water loss
Supports barrier recovery in dry, compromised, or reactive skin
Improves long-term skin resilience
Why we chose it
We chose a multi-ceramide system because healthy skin doesn't rely on a single ceramide. Different ceramides each contribute to the structure and function of the skin's lipid barrier, working together to maintain strength, flexibility, and hydration. Rather than relying on one ceramide alone, we selected a combination that better reflects how the skin naturally builds and maintains its barrier. Supporting the skin's infrastructure has always been a more effective strategy than chasing temporary results.
References
Wertz PW. Research on ceramides and the structure of the stratum corneum. (Mechanism of action and barrier biology.)
Elias PM. Research on epidermal barrier function and ceramide physiology. (Barrier science.)
Clinical studies evaluating topical ceramides for barrier repair and hydration. (Clinical efficacy.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Waxes & Structuring Agents
Beeswax (Cera Alba)
What it is
A natural wax produced by honeybees and refined for cosmetic use. Rich in long-chain esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbons, beeswax provides structure, stability, and breathable protection while contributing to the luxurious texture of creams, balms, and treatment sticks.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Provides structure and stability to anhydrous formulations
Forms a breathable protective layer that helps reduce moisture loss
Improves texture, body, and consistency
Enhances adhesion and staying power in balms and treatment sticks
Contributes a smooth, cushioned skin feel
Why we chose it
We chose beeswax because few natural ingredients contribute as much to both product performance and skin protection. Its unique composition creates structure while forming a flexible, breathable barrier that helps reduce transepidermal water loss without sealing the skin completely. In anhydrous formulations, beeswax also improves adhesion, stability, and wear, helping products stay exactly where they're needed while maintaining a comfortable skin feel. Its versatility, long history of safe cosmetic use, and exceptional functionality continue to make it one of the most valuable natural ingredients available to formulators.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Beeswax (Cera Alba). (Safety.)
Research on beeswax composition and its functional role in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating beeswax for barrier support, occlusive properties, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Cera Bellina (Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax)
What it is
A naturally derived beeswax derivative created by esterifying beeswax with polyglycerol. This modification gives it unique functional properties that natural beeswax alone cannot provide, particularly in anhydrous formulations.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Not COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Inhibits crystallization in anhydrous formulas
Gels oils without creating a greasy feel
Helps prevent oil separation in balms and stick formulations
Creates a smooth, cushioned finish on the skin
Improves flexibility without making formulas brittle
Why we chose it
We chose Cera Bellina because no ingredient in a higher tier of our Hierarchy of Purity™ could accomplish the same job as effectively. It creates a level of oil gelling, crystallization control, and structural flexibility that traditional waxes and currently available COSMOS-compliant alternatives simply don't match. While it doesn't qualify as COSMOS-compliant due to the chemical modification used during manufacturing, its performance solves a specific formulation challenge that could not be addressed to our standards with a cleaner alternative. Rather than hiding that compromise, we document it openly. That's exactly what the Hierarchy of Purity™ is designed to do.
References
Supplier technical documentation on Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax functionality. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Research on esterified waxes and oil-gelling technology in cosmetic formulations. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient classification and compliance.)
Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax)
What it is
A naturally derived plant wax obtained from the leaves of the candelilla shrub. Known for its hardness and high melting point, candelilla wax provides structure, firmness, and a smooth, glossy finish while serving as a vegan alternative to beeswax in many cosmetic formulations.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Adds structure and firmness to anhydrous formulations
Raises melting point and improves heat stability
Enhances glide while contributing a smooth, glossy finish
Helps improve product durability and shape retention
Supports long-lasting wear in balms and stick formulations
Why we chose it
We chose candelilla wax because it contributes structural properties that differ significantly from beeswax. Its higher melting point and naturally harder crystalline structure help create firmer, more heat-stable products while maintaining an elegant skin feel. Rather than serving as a direct replacement for beeswax, candelilla brings its own strengths to a formulation, allowing us to fine-tune firmness, glide, and durability with greater precision. Used thoughtfully, it helps create products that perform consistently while maintaining the luxurious application experience we expect from every formula.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Candelilla Wax. (Safety.)
Research on candelilla wax composition and its functional role in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating candelilla wax for texture, structure, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Jasmine Sambac Wax (Jasminum sambac Flower Wax)
What it is
A naturally derived floral wax obtained from jasmine flowers during the extraction process. It provides light structure, a refined sensory profile, and a subtle natural floral character while contributing to the overall elegance of anhydrous formulations.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides light structure in anhydrous formulas
Contributes a subtle natural floral character
Enhances overall sensory elegance and skin feel
Works effectively at very low concentrations without significantly affecting texture or melt
Why we chose it
We chose jasmine sambac wax because exceptional formulations engage more than performance alone—they also create an experience people enjoy using. At very low concentrations, it adds subtle structure, refines the feel of the formula, and contributes a delicate natural floral character without relying on conventional fragrance. It isn't included to dominate the product; it's there to quietly enhance it, proving that even the smallest ingredients can make a meaningful difference.
References
Research on floral waxes and their functional properties in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating jasmine flower wax for sensory performance and skin conditioning. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Rose Floral Wax (Rosa damascena Flower Wax)
What it is
A naturally derived floral wax obtained from rose petals during the extraction process. It provides light structure, a refined sensory profile, and a delicate natural rose character while enhancing the feel of both anhydrous and emulsion formulations.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides light structure in anhydrous formulations
Contributes a subtle natural rose character
Enhances overall sensory elegance and skin feel
Works effectively at very low concentrations without significantly affecting texture or performance
Why we chose it
We chose rose floral wax because thoughtful formulation extends beyond active ingredients. At very low concentrations, it adds subtle structure, refines the feel of the formula, and contributes a delicate natural floral character without relying on conventional fragrance. Used with restraint, it enhances the overall sensory experience while allowing the formula itself to remain the focus. It's a small ingredient that helps make a finished product feel truly complete.
References
Research on floral waxes and their functional properties in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating rose flower wax for sensory performance and skin conditioning. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Stearic Acid (Stearic Acid)
What it is
A naturally occurring saturated fatty acid found in plant oils and butters. In cosmetic formulations, stearic acid provides structure, stability, and body while contributing to the rich, elegant textures associated with high-quality creams and balms.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Builds structure and viscosity in emulsions and anhydrous formulations
Improves product stability and consistency
Contributes a rich, cushioned skin feel
Supports the moisture barrier by reinforcing the lipid phase
Enhances the overall texture and elegance of finished formulas
Why we chose it
We chose stearic acid because great texture doesn't happen by accident. As one of the primary structural fatty acids found naturally in many botanical oils and butters, it helps create stable, luxurious formulations with excellent body and consistency. Beyond its role as a structuring agent, stearic acid contributes to the rich, cushioned feel that defines many premium skincare products. It's a foundational ingredient that quietly improves both product performance and the user experience—exactly the kind of multifunctional ingredient we value.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Stearic Acid. (Safety.)
Research on stearic acid in cosmetic emulsions and anhydrous formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating stearic acid for emulsion stability, texture, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Cetearyl Alcohol (Cetearyl Alcohol)
What it is
A plant-derived blend of cetyl and stearyl fatty alcohols used to build structure, stabilize emulsions, and create rich, elegant textures. Despite the name, fatty alcohols are fundamentally different from drying alcohols like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol and are valued for their conditioning and texturizing properties.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Builds structure and stability in emulsions and anhydrous formulations
Thickens creams and lotions while maintaining a smooth texture
Improves slip and creates a rich, cushioned skin feel
Supports emulsion stability and consistency
Enhances the overall elegance of finished formulations
Why we chose it
We chose cetearyl alcohol because exceptional texture begins with exceptional structure. As a blend of naturally derived fatty alcohols, it helps create stable, luxurious formulations while contributing a smooth, creamy skin feel that lighter structuring agents alone can't achieve. It works alongside emulsifiers and lipids to improve consistency, stability, and application without leaving a heavy or greasy finish. It's one of those foundational ingredients that quietly elevates nearly every aspect of a well-designed formula.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Cetearyl Alcohol. (Safety.)
Research on fatty alcohols in cosmetic emulsions and anhydrous formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating cetearyl alcohol for texture, stability, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Emulsifiers & Texturizers
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Coco-Caprylate/Caprate)
What it is
A bio-based emollient derived from coconut fatty acids that provides exceptional slip, spreadability, and a lightweight skin feel. Developed as a plant-based alternative to traditional silicone fluids, it helps create elegant formulations without relying on silicones.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Improves slip and spreadability
Enhances skin feel and glide
Helps reduce greasy afterfeel
Contributes to elegant textures in emulsions and anhydrous formulations
Why we chose it
We chose coco-caprylate/caprate because sensory performance matters. It provides the lightweight glide and elegant finish often associated with silicone fluids while fitting our preference for renewable, bio-based ingredients. Rather than choosing between performance and ingredient philosophy, it allows us to achieve both—creating formulas that feel refined, absorb comfortably, and remain aligned with our formulation standards.
References
Research on coco-caprylate/caprate as a bio-based emollient and sensory modifier. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating coco-caprylate/caprate for skin conditioning and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Arrowroot Powder (Maranta arundinacea Root Powder*)
What it is
A naturally derived starch powder obtained from the arrowroot plant. In skincare, it's valued for improving texture, absorbing excess surface oil, and creating a smooth, silky finish.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Helps absorb excess surface oil and moisture
Improves formula texture and application
Contributes to a smooth, soft-focus finish
Creates a silky, powder-soft skin feel
Why we chose it
We chose arrowroot powder because great skincare isn't just about what a formula does—it's also about how it feels. It helps balance richer oils and butters, reduces unwanted heaviness, and creates a soft, elegant finish without relying on synthetic texturizing agents. It's one of those ingredients that rarely gets the spotlight, but it plays an important role in creating products people genuinely enjoy using.
References
Research on Maranta arundinacea starch and its cosmetic applications. (Mechanism of action and functional properties.)
Studies evaluating botanical starches for oil absorption and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Behenyl Alcohol (Behenyl Alcohol)
What it is
A plant-derived long-chain fatty alcohol used to add structure, stability, and a smooth, cushiony texture to skincare formulations. Unlike drying alcohols such as ethanol or isopropyl alcohol, fatty alcohols are valued for their emollient and texturizing properties.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides structure and formula stability
Adds cushion and slip
Improves creaminess without heaviness
Contributes to elegant, barrier-friendly textures
Why we chose it
We chose behenyl alcohol because it creates structure without sacrificing elegance. It helps build stable creams and balms while contributing a smooth, cushiony skin feel that complements both lightweight emollients and richer botanical butters. Rather than making a formula feel waxy or heavy, it helps create textures that feel refined, comfortable, and consistent from the first application to the last.
References
Research on fatty alcohols in cosmetic emulsions and anhydrous formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating behenyl alcohol for texture, stability, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Fatty Alcohols. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Xanthan Gum (Xanthan Gum)
What it is
A naturally derived polysaccharide produced through fermentation. Xanthan gum is one of the most widely used rheology modifiers in cosmetics, valued for its ability to thicken, stabilize, and improve the texture of formulations while maintaining a smooth, elegant application.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Thickens and stabilizes water-based formulations
Suspends insoluble ingredients evenly throughout the formula
Improves viscosity and texture
Enhances application and skin feel
Helps maintain long-term formulation stability
Why we chose it
We chose xanthan gum because stability is essential to product performance. Produced through natural fermentation, it creates elegant viscosity while helping keep ingredients uniformly dispersed throughout a formulation. At carefully selected concentrations, xanthan gum provides body and stability without leaving a heavy or sticky afterfeel. It's a dependable, well-documented ingredient that allows active ingredients to remain evenly distributed while contributing to the smooth, consistent application we expect from every formula.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Xanthan Gum. (Safety.)
Research on xanthan gum as a rheology modifier and stabilizer in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating xanthan gum for viscosity, suspension, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Boron Nitride (Boron Nitride)
What it is
An inorganic mineral powder with a unique hexagonal crystal structure that provides exceptional slip, soft-focus optical effects, and a remarkably silky skin feel. Its physical properties make it a valued ingredient in high-performance skincare and cosmetic formulations.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 5 — Science-Documented
Additional Qualifications: COSMOS status varies by grade and supplier.
What it does
Creates an exceptionally silky, smooth skin feel
Softens the appearance of pores and fine lines through optical blurring
Improves slip and spreadability
Helps reduce the appearance of surface shine
Enhances the elegance of lightweight emulsions and skin preparations
Why we chose it
We chose boron nitride because few ingredients improve the sensory experience of a formula as effectively while also providing subtle optical benefits. Its naturally layered crystal structure allows particles to glide smoothly across the skin, creating a refined, silky finish while gently diffusing light to soften the appearance of texture. It's included not because it's trendy, but because it solves multiple formulation challenges with a single, well-documented ingredient—improving both the feel of the product and the finish it leaves behind.
References
Research on boron nitride as a cosmetic functional filler and sensory modifier. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating boron nitride for optical blurring and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
Supplier technical documentation for cosmetic-grade boron nitride. (Material properties and cosmetic applications.)
Ester AB (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)
What it is
A lightweight synthetic ester used to improve spreadability, reduce heaviness, and create a smooth, dry-touch finish in skincare formulations. It's valued for its elegant sensory profile and ability to refine richer oil phases.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 5 — Science-Documented
What it does
Improves spreadability and glide
Creates a lightweight, dry-touch finish
Helps reduce heaviness in oil-rich formulations
Balances the sensory feel of richer emollients
Why we chose it
We chose C12-15 alkyl benzoate because exceptional skincare should feel as refined as it performs. It helps transform richer formulations into products that spread effortlessly, absorb comfortably, and leave behind a lightweight finish without diminishing the nourishing properties of the surrounding oils and butters. It isn't included because it's trendy—it's included because it solves a specific formulation challenge exceptionally well. When no naturally derived alternative delivers the same level of performance, we believe transparency is a better choice than compromise.
References
Research on C12-15 alkyl benzoate as a cosmetic emollient and sensory modifier. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating ester emollients for spreadability and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Alkyl Benzoates. (Safety.)
Fine Mica (Mica)
What it is
A naturally occurring mineral used to subtly reflect light and enhance the visual finish of skincare formulations. At very low concentrations, fine mica creates a soft, natural luminosity while also helping improve the overall feel of the product.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softly reflects light to enhance the skin's natural appearance
Contributes to a subtle, luminous finish
Helps soften the appearance of surface texture through optical diffusion
Helps absorb excess surface oil to reduce shine
Improves the sensory feel of the finished formula
Why we chose it
We chose fine mica because it contributes more than just visual appeal. At low concentrations, it creates a soft, natural luminosity while helping reduce surface shine and improving the overall feel of the formula. Used thoughtfully, it enhances the finished appearance without looking glittery or makeup-like. It's included to complement the performance of the formula—not compete with it—creating a finish that feels as refined as the ingredients behind it.
References
Research on mica as a cosmetic pigment and optical modifier. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating mineral pigments for optical effects, oil absorption, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Mica. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Olivem® 1000 MB (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate)
What it is
A naturally derived emulsifying system made from olive oil fatty acids. In addition to bringing oil and water together, Olivem® 1000 forms liquid crystal (lamellar) structures that resemble the organization of the skin's natural lipid barrier.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Creates stable oil-in-water emulsions
Forms lamellar structures that support an elegant cream texture
Improves long-term emulsion stability
Contributes to skin comfort and a smooth after-feel
Why we chose it
We chose Olivem® 1000 because an emulsifier should do more than simply hold a formula together. Its ability to form lamellar structures contributes to stable, elegant creams with a smooth, comfortable skin feel that complements barrier-focused formulations. It aligns with our philosophy of selecting ingredients that support both product performance and the overall experience of using it. For us, an emulsifier isn't just a functional necessity—it's part of how a great formula feels from the first application to the last.
References
HallStar. Olivem® 1000 Technical Documentation. (Lamellar liquid crystal technology and formulation science.)
Research on liquid crystal emulsions and skin barrier compatibility. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Silica Microspheres (Silica)
What it is
Spherical mineral particles refined for cosmetic use that create a soft-focus optical effect while improving the texture and finish of skincare formulations. Their unique shape contributes to a smooth, velvety skin feel and a refined appearance.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Softens the appearance of skin texture through optical diffusion
Helps absorb excess surface oil and reduce shine
Improves slip and spreadability
Creates a smooth, velvety finish
Why we chose it
We chose silica microspheres because performance isn't just about what a formula delivers—it's also about how it looks and feels on the skin. Their spherical shape helps diffuse light to soften the appearance of texture while reducing excess surface shine and enhancing the overall finish of the product. They allow us to create skincare that layers beautifully on its own or under makeup without adding heaviness or compromising the formula's primary purpose.
References
Research on cosmetic-grade silica microspheres and optical diffusion. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating silica for oil absorption, sensory performance, and soft-focus effects. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Silica. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Lecithin (Lecithin)
What it is
A bio-based phospholipid naturally found in cell membranes and commonly derived from soy or sunflower. Lecithin functions as both a skin-conditioning ingredient and a multifunctional formulation aid, making it one of the most versatile lipids used in skincare.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 3 — Bio-Based
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Supports the skin's moisture barrier
Helps stabilize and organize oil and water phases
Improves the dispersion of surrounding ingredients
Enhances skin softness and overall formula elegance
Why we chose it
We chose lecithin because the best ingredients often do more than one job well. It supports the skin's natural lipid barrier while also improving the structure, stability, and texture of a formula. Its phospholipid composition makes it highly compatible with skin, and its versatility allows it to contribute to both product performance and the overall sensory experience. When one ingredient benefits both the formula and the skin, it earns its place.
References
Research on phospholipids and lecithin in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating lecithin for skin conditioning, emulsification, and barrier support. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Lecithin. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Preservation System
Geogard® ETC (Glycerin, Aqua, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate)
What it is
A naturally derived, broad-spectrum preservation system that protects water-based skincare from microbial contamination. Built from organic acids and naturally derived components, it helps maintain product safety while aligning with internationally recognized clean formulation standards.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Provides broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection
Helps maintain product safety throughout its shelf life
Preserves the integrity and performance of water-based formulations
Supports stable, reliable products for everyday use
Why we chose it
We chose Geogard® ETC because product safety is non-negotiable. A preservative should protect the formula without becoming the focus of it, and this system provides dependable broad-spectrum preservation while meeting our standards for naturally derived, COSMOS-compliant ingredients. Every water-based product requires effective preservation—not as a marketing feature, but as a fundamental part of responsible formulation. Safe products aren't optional; they're the starting point.
References
Research on gluconolactone and sodium benzoate preservation systems. (Mechanism of action and preservation science.)
Supplier technical documentation for Geogard® ETC. (Functional performance and formulation guidance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety assessments for gluconolactone, sodium benzoate, and related ingredients. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
What it is
A naturally occurring antioxidant derived from plant oils. In skincare, tocopherol helps protect both the formula and the skin from oxidative stress, making it one of the most widely used and well-studied antioxidants in cosmetic science.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Helps protect oils from oxidation
Supports formula stability and shelf life
Softens and conditions the skin
Provides antioxidant support
Why we chose it
We chose vitamin E because protecting a formula is just as important as building one. Lipid-rich formulations naturally oxidize over time, and oxidation can reduce ingredient quality, alter texture, and shorten shelf life. Tocopherol helps preserve the integrity of those oils while also providing antioxidant support for the skin. It's included because it serves a real functional purpose—not because it's a familiar name on an ingredient list.
References
Brigelius-Flohé R, Traber MG. Vitamin E: Function and Metabolism. (Mechanism of action and antioxidant biology.)
Research on tocopherol for cosmetic formulation stability and skin conditioning. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Tocopherol. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Rosemary Extract (Rosmarinus officinalis Leaf Extract)
What it is
A naturally derived botanical antioxidant used primarily to help protect the oils within a formula from oxidation. In our formulations, rosemary extract is selected for its ability to support product stability rather than as a primary skincare active.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 1 — Organic (when certified) or Tier 4 — Naturally Derived (when non-certified)
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Helps protect oils from oxidation
Supports long-term formula stability
Extends the integrity of lipid-rich formulations
Provides antioxidant support within the oil phase
Why we chose it
We chose rosemary extract because protecting the formula is part of protecting the skin. Oxidized oils can lose performance and shorten a product's shelf life, so preserving the integrity of the oil phase is an important part of responsible formulation. While rosemary extract does have documented skin benefits, its primary role in our formulas is to help maintain the quality and stability of the oils from the day they're made until the last use. Every ingredient should have a clear purpose—and this one does exactly what it's there to do.
References
Research on rosemary extract as a natural antioxidant in lipid systems. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating rosemary extract for oxidative stability in cosmetic oils. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis Extract. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Performance Enhancers
Dimethicone (DM350) (Dimethicone)
What it is
A high-purity silicone fluid used to improve glide, reduce friction, and create an exceptionally smooth application. Dimethicone is one of the most extensively studied cosmetic ingredients, with decades of safety data supporting its use across a wide range of skincare products.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 5 — Science-Documented
What it does
Provides exceptional glide and slip during application
Reduces drag and friction in anhydrous formulations
Improves the even distribution of active ingredients
Creates a smooth, comfortable skin feel
Enhances the overall elegance of the finished formula
Why we chose it
We chose dimethicone because, after extensive formulation work, no ingredient in Tiers 1–4 delivered the same level of glide required for this application. In an anhydrous treatment stick, smooth, controlled application isn't just a cosmetic preference—it directly affects how comfortably and consistently the product can be used. We evaluated multiple naturally derived alternatives, including hemisqualane, coco-caprylate/caprate, and ester-based emollients, but none matched the performance of high-purity dimethicone in this specific format. Our Hierarchy of Purity™ exists to guide formulation decisions, not dictate them. When a Tier 5 ingredient is demonstrably the best tool for the job and supported by decades of safety research, we believe transparency is a better standard than compromise.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Dimethicone and Related Silicones. (Safety.)
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on Siloxanes Used in Cosmetics. (European regulatory assessment.)
U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). OTC Skin Protectant Monograph. (Regulatory recognition where applicable.)
Research evaluating dimethicone for skin protection, sensory performance, and formulation science. (Mechanism of action and functional performance.)
Polyisobutene (Polyisobutene)
What it is
A synthetic polymer used in high-performance cosmetic formulations for its exceptional film-forming properties. It creates a flexible, durable layer that improves wear, adhesion, and overall product performance without leaving a tacky finish.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 5 — Science-Documented
What it does
Forms a flexible, durable film on the skin
Improves longwear performance
Enhances transfer resistance
Contributes a smooth, comfortable finish
Supports overall formula durability
Why we chose it
We chose polyisobutene because longwear performance requires a film former that can remain flexible while maintaining adhesion throughout wear. After evaluating available alternatives, we found that naturally derived and currently available COSMOS-compliant options did not deliver the same combination of durability, flexibility, and comfortable wear in this application. Rather than compromising product performance to satisfy a marketing trend, we selected the ingredient that best solved the formulation challenge. It earned its place through documented performance, an established safety profile, and decades of successful cosmetic use. That's exactly what Tier 5 is designed to represent.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Polyisobutene. (Safety.)
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), where applicable. (Regulatory assessment.)
Research on cosmetic film-forming polymers and longwear formulation technology. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating film-forming polymers for transfer resistance, durability, and sensory performance. (Functional performance.)
Decyl Glucoside (Decyl Glucoside)
What it is
A mild, plant-derived nonionic surfactant produced from plant sugars and coconut-derived fatty alcohols. Decyl glucoside gently lifts away oil, sunscreen, makeup, and impurities while remaining exceptionally well tolerated by sensitive skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Gently cleanses without stripping the skin
Helps lift away oil, sunscreen, and daily impurities
Supports stable cleansing and emulsification
Contributes to a soft, comfortable after-feel
Improves rinse-off performance in cleansing formulations
Why we chose it
We chose decyl glucoside because effective cleansing should never come at the expense of the skin barrier. As one of the mildest plant-derived surfactants available, it removes oil and impurities while maintaining excellent skin compatibility. In our cleansing systems, it works alongside complementary ingredients to improve rinse-off performance and leave skin feeling clean, comfortable, and balanced—not tight or stripped. It's a dependable, well-documented ingredient that aligns with our philosophy of barrier-conscious formulation.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Alkyl Glucosides, Including Decyl Glucoside. (Safety.)
Research on alkyl glucosides in mild cleansing formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating decyl glucoside for cleansing performance and skin compatibility. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
What it is
A mild amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids. Cocamidopropyl betaine helps improve cleansing performance while reducing the irritation potential of stronger surfactants, making it a staple in gentle cleansers for sensitive skin.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant (when applicable)
What it does
Boosts cleansing performance while maintaining mildness
Helps reduce the irritation potential of cleansing systems
Improves foam quality and stability
Contributes to a soft, conditioned after-feel
Supports overall formulation compatibility
Why we chose it
We chose cocamidopropyl betaine because effective cleansing relies on balance. Rather than functioning as a primary cleanser alone, it works alongside other surfactants to improve cleansing performance while helping create a gentler overall system. It enhances foam, improves rinseability, and contributes to a comfortable after-feel without compromising barrier-conscious formulation. Used thoughtfully, it helps create cleansers that are both effective and exceptionally well tolerated.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Cocamidopropyl Betaine. (Safety.)
Research on amphoteric surfactants in mild cleansing systems. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating cocamidopropyl betaine for cleansing performance, foam quality, and skin compatibility. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate (Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate)
What it is
A naturally derived emulsifier and cleansing agent produced from plant-based glycerin and oleic acid. Designed specifically for oil-rich formulations, it allows oils, makeup, sunscreen, and impurities to rinse away cleanly with water while maintaining a comfortable skin feel.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Emulsifies oils for easy water rinse-off
Helps lift away makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum
Improves cleansing performance in anhydrous formulations
Reduces oily residue after cleansing
Supports a smooth, comfortable after-feel
Why we chose it
We chose polyglyceryl-4 oleate because an oil cleanser should leave behind clean skin—not a greasy film. Unlike traditional emulsifiers designed for creams and lotions, polyglyceryl-4 oleate is optimized for anhydrous cleansing systems, allowing rich oils to transform into a lightweight cleansing emulsion when water is introduced. The result is effective makeup and sunscreen removal with a comfortable, balanced finish. In our formulations, it serves as one of the key functional components of the cleansing system, helping deliver the effortless rinse-off performance we expect from a modern cleansing balm.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
Research on polyglyceryl esters in cleansing oils and anhydrous emulsification systems. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating polyglyceryl-4 oleate for rinse-off performance, emulsification, and skin compatibility. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
Sodium Gluconate (Sodium Gluconate)
What it is
A fermentation-derived ingredient that helps keep skincare formulas stable and effective. As a naturally derived chelating agent, sodium gluconate binds trace metal ions that can interfere with product stability over time.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Chelates trace metal ions to help stabilize formulations
Supports the effectiveness of preservative systems
Helps protect sensitive ingredients from degradation
Contributes to long-term formula consistency and performance
Why we chose it
We chose sodium gluconate because a well-formulated product should perform the same on day one as it does months later. By binding trace metal ions that can destabilize formulas or reduce ingredient performance, it helps protect the integrity of the entire formulation. It's not an ingredient chosen for marketing claims—it's chosen because thoughtful formulation depends just as much on stability as it does on active ingredients.
References
Research on sodium gluconate as a cosmetic chelating agent. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating chelating agents in cosmetic stability and preservation systems. (Functional performance.)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), when available, or equivalent cosmetic safety assessment. (Safety.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)
VP/VA Copolymer (VP/VA Copolymer)
What it is
A synthetic film-forming polymer made from vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate. Widely used in longwear cosmetic formulations, it creates a flexible, durable film that helps products maintain their appearance throughout wear.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 5 — Science-Documented
What it does
Forms a flexible, durable film
Helps maintain color payoff and finish
Improves wear longevity and transfer resistance
Enhances definition and overall formula performance
Supports consistent wear under everyday conditions
Why we chose it
We chose VP/VA Copolymer because longwear performance depends on a film former that can remain flexible while holding color exactly where it's applied. After evaluating available alternatives, we found that naturally derived and currently available COSMOS-compliant options did not deliver the same combination of durability, flexibility, and wear performance for this application. Supported by decades of cosmetic use and an extensive safety record, VP/VA Copolymer earned its place by solving a formulation challenge that higher-tier ingredients could not. That's exactly what Tier 5 is designed to represent.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of VP/VA Copolymer. (Safety.)
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), where applicable. (Regulatory assessment.)
Research on cosmetic film-forming polymers and longwear formulation technology. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating VP/VA Copolymer for wear, transfer resistance, and film performance. (Functional performance.)
Citric Acid (Citric Acid)
What it is
A naturally occurring organic acid found in citrus fruits and produced through fermentation for cosmetic use. In skincare, citric acid is used primarily to adjust and maintain the optimal pH of a formulation, helping ingredients perform as intended while supporting product stability.
Hierarchy of Purity™
Primary Classification: Tier 4 — Naturally Derived
Additional Qualifications: Tier 2 — COSMOS-Compliant
What it does
Adjusts and maintains optimal formula pH
Supports ingredient stability and performance
Helps maintain preservation system effectiveness
Contributes to overall formulation consistency
Supports skin compatibility through proper pH balance
Why we chose it
We chose citric acid because even the best ingredients can underperform if a formula's pH isn't properly balanced. Many cosmetic ingredients—including preservatives, emulsifiers, and active ingredients—function optimally within a specific pH range. Citric acid allows us to fine-tune that balance with precision, helping ensure the finished product remains stable, effective, and comfortable on the skin. It's not included as a featured active; it's included because great formulations depend on careful engineering from beginning to end.
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Safety Assessment of Citric Acid and Inorganic Citrate Ingredients. (Safety.)
Research on citric acid as a pH adjuster in cosmetic formulations. (Mechanism of action and formulation science.)
Studies evaluating the influence of pH on cosmetic stability, preservation, and skin compatibility. (Functional performance.)
COSMOS Standard. (Ingredient compliance and formulation standards.)